September 2021
www.TexasBeeSupply.com
TEXAS BEE SUPPLY
Monthly
Cover Photo Credit: Nanette Davis
Feature Topics September Tips Fall Feeding Rotating Old Comb Winter Bees Much MUCH More!!!
Edition 15
Table Of Contents
Forgot to read last month's issue? Don't miss all the great information it offered! Click the cover above and step inside. New to Texas Bee Supply Monthly? We welcome your feedback and submissions! Beekeeping Questions: help@texasbeesupply.com Article suggestions, questions or content submissions? editor@texasbeesupply.com
HUNDREDS OF ITEMS AVAILABLE!
(800) 356-4229 www.TexasBeeSupply.com
FAST - FREE SHIPPING ON ORDERS OVER $50
351 County Rd 6243 Dayton, TX 77535
14665 County Rd 633 Blue Ridge, TX 75424
6 September Tips 8 Fall is Coming! 14 The Objective of Fall Feeding 16 Sugar Syrup Recipe 17 Ask the Expert: 1/1 vs 2/1 Syrup Feeding 20 Why Feed Pollen Subs 24 Fall Splits 25 Ask the Experts: How to Make Fall Splits 26 Bees on the Move 31 Ask the Expert: How to Move Bees 32 The New Age in Varroa Management 36 Vitellogenin - The Miracle Molecule 40 Monthly Q & A 42 When & How to Throw Away Aging Frames and Comb 44 Ask the Experts - Replacing Dark, Old Comb 46 Recipe: Honey Joes 49 Club Announcements
Page Topic
2 Locations to Serve You! Our friendly, knowledgeable staff are eager to help you answer questions and guide you with your specific beekeeping needs. We look forward to seeing you!
South Texas - Houston Area
North Texas - Dallas Area
1. September can bring cooler weather and some moisture, or more scorching heat. Either way, continue to focus on maintaining 30 lbs of stored food for hives which are 1 deep box full of bees or more. 2. Test for mites, as mite populations can begin to climb, necessitating another mite treatment. If you have 2 or less mites per 100 bees, treatment isn't necessary. However, if you do have 2 mites per 100 bees, test again in October. 3. September begins the rearing of winter bees. Worker bees rear two kinds of bees - spring/summer bees and winter bees. spring/summer bees are almost disposable, and are not fed quite the same diet. During those months, bees work so hard they work themselves to death in a matter of weeks, thus they are reared on a less than ideal diet. Winter bees are fed as close to a perfect diet as possible, to ensure they are able to survive the entire winter. As beekeepers, it is crucial that we provide the bees with all the food and nutrition needed for our bees to rear the healthiest possible winter bees. We recommend feeding at least 2 lbs of pollen substitute in each fall month (September, October and November) to guarantee sufficient nutrition is available. 4. If you want to requeen your hive, September is a great time to do so. This will be the last month queens are available, so take advantage of the final opportunity to requeen if your queen is over a year old.
Meet Blake
Blake Shook
Exclusive Texas Bee Supply Super Suit
I designed this suit after years of struggling with other suits not fitting right, not performing well and overall poor quality. My wish list: Longer torso for better mobility Triple layered ventilation Rust-Free Zippers - Full leg length zippers - Zippered veil Extra support in the back of the veil for rigidity Heavy duty knee pads Elastic wrist bands, backed up with Velcro straps (no more floppy arm bands) Result: The best suit I've ever owned - So good, that I'm proud to put the company name on it! Blake Shook
September tips
SHOP
Fall is Coming - Fall is Coming!!!
Text
By: Chari Elam
Combining Colonies Part 2
Fall is on its way! I know, I know… It’s still hot outside, but rest assured, the bees are well aware of the impending season change. Despite some “challenging” weather this year, hopefully you were able to extract some surplus honey regardless. From this point on (September), we leave any and all stored honey for our bees. It is very important you leave enough honey for them to overwinter! Bear in mind – bees need 30 lbs of stored honey “per box” going into fall and winter. Hint: A full frame of capped honey weighs approximately 10 lbs. Bonus for beekeepers – In many areas fall nectar producing plants are in full swing or just beginning to produce. Goldenrod, Snow on the Prairie, Clover, Indian Blanket … just to name a few. Here is a handy resource for beekeepers to utilize in determining what is blooming and when. It’s area specific so this is extremely helpful for any part of the state or the nation for that matter. Compared to spring buildup, the queen has drastically slowed her laying. We are entering the time of year when the majority of the bees working your colony are the same bees you’ll start spring with. WoW – That’s hard to fathom, isn’t it? Spring bees live 4-6 weeks and winter bees can live 6 or more months! This is the #1 reason for having the healthiest colony possible going into winter. A few options to consider: Supplemental pollen feeding– add pollen patties (2 lbs per month per hive) to ensure the best possible nutrition for bees expected to come out of Winter robustly and ready for spring. Adding pollen patties in small amounts that can be consumed quickly, will ensure hive beetles won’t have time to use them as a breading ground. Hint: Cut patties into strips the size of bacon and place them directly on top of the frames right above the brood nest – no more than what can be consumed in a week. Feeding syrup– IF your colony is low on honey stores and you don’t see the fall flow coming in, consider feeding syrup. My recommendation this time of year is to feed pre-made syrup purchased from my favorite bee supplier. This is a thicker syrup than what you would normally make at home, and it’s packed full of added benefits that you simply can’t duplicate with ease. We want these girls to be able to feed the developing larvae well. When we feed the nurse bees well, the nurse bees feed the young bees well and that equals a healthier colony going into winter as well as heading into spring. Combine weak colonies– One of the best things you can do for your bees is to recognize when they aren’t going to make it and take action while there’s still time to save some bees. What is a weak colony? If you have 10 frames and only 5 have bees on them, that’s a weak colony. Could be that you have a full box of bees and no queen or a failing or aging queen. Very soon queens will not be available or even the resources (drones) to make one. This colony would be a prime candidate to combine with another colony this time of year. Watch these videos and see how EASY it is to do. Sharing resources– One of the most effective management skills in beekeeping is equalizing resources. This skill is not hard. It’s just a matter of sharing from a good colony what will help a needy one. If you’re short on bees in one colony, add a frame of soon to emerge brood. If you're short on honey, add a frame of honey… you get the point. The benefit of having more than one colony is being able to share between them – don’t miss the opportunity! Remember, never weaken one colony to save another. Always share from a strong colony, and never more than a frame or two at a time. Reduce boxes– So often beekeepers build up to 2 or even 3 deep boxes and stop there. Keep in mind our populations have now decreased from the peak nectar flow levels. Fewer bees mean less space required. On your hive inspections, verify the box to bee ratio is balanced. Too much space and you could be couting disaster (wax moths)! Don’t be afraid to reduce boxes if you don’t have the bees to cover the frames. Yes, this time of year I’m encouraging you to boost populations for winter, but not to the levels we saw in spring. Your goal is to go into winter with 2 deep boxes per colony, BUT if you don’t have the bees to fill both boxes, it would be better to combine the weak hive with another weaker colony or to reduce down to 1 deep. A healthy full single deep will overwinter just fine. A double deep with only enough bees for 1 deep, won’t. Test and Treat for Varroa– There isn’t a beekeeper out there that doesn’t have Varroa mites. It is our job as bee "keepers” to manage Varroa mites and keep them at the very lowest threshold possible. Check out our many videos and past articles on testing and treating for these colony destroyers. September, October, and November are critical months for beekeepers. Our actions now directly affect how our colonies perform in spring. Your goal should be to build your fall populations by supplemental feeding when necessary and manage the colonies effectively. Be prepared to combine weak colonies when needed; move resources from one to another; reduce boxes … whatever it takes. It’s not how many hives you have, it’s how healthy the ones you have, are. By: Chari Elam
Combining Colonies Part 1
Virtual Fall and Winter Management September 4th - 2021
Photo Credit: Susan Caldwell
Virtually learn how to prepare your bees for the upcoming winter. This thorough class discusses feeding bees, treating for mites, combining hives, overwintering methods and best management practices. Virtually view healthy hives that have been properly prepared for winter with ample stores for the bees and to view hives which need additional support in order to survive the colder months. The class is taught by a live instructor and runs from 9:30 a.m. until 12:30 p.m.
Learn More!
Janet Rowe Blue Ridge, TX
1st Thursday of Each Month Next meeting September 2nd @ 6:30 pm!
Join hundreds of beekeepers in one of the largest monthly virtual meetings!
MORE INFO
Register for our FREE monthly Webinar! Guest Speaker: Randy Oliver ScientificBeekeeping.com Live In the Bee Yard Tips September Tips Live Q&A
Live Virtual Meeting
James & Chari Elam Dayton-Huffman, TX
2021 FALL SERIES BEGINNING BEEKEEPING CLASSES
Topic Highlights Hive Equipment & Protective Gear Basic Functions of the Hive Overview of Workers, Queens and Drones What's What In a Hive Identification & Treating Bee Diseases & Pest Yearly Hive Management Nutrition Honey Production & Harvesting
All Day IN PERSON Classes! Don't Miss Out! Only a Few Classes Left this Year! LIVE BEE YARD EXPERIENCE included with each registration!
MEET YOUR INSTRUCTORS!
Lunch Included!
CLICK HERE!
Watch last months Webinar HERE
Check out the September 2nd Webinar with RANDY OLIVER - ScientificBeekeeping.com either in person or after on our Website or YouTube channel!
The Objective of Fall Feeding
The objective of fall feeding should be to help the bees store enough syrup to survive the winter. Once daytime temperatures are in the 50's or below, bees greatly reduce the amount of syrup they drink. Due to this, fall feeding should take place weeks before temperatures historically drop to those lows in your area. The goal in the southern half of the US is to make sure each of your hives have at least 30 lbs of honey in their second brood box, and 3-4 frames of honey in their lower brood box by the time daytime temperatures are routinely in the 50's. In the northern US, the same rules apply, but you should be closer to 50-60 lbs of stores. Once you have achieved that, either by feeding, or the bees bringing in nectar themselves, you can stop feeding! Continue checking every few weeks to ensure the hive has sufficient food. I'm often asked about area feeding. Open feeding has a few pros and cons. In general, I feel the cons outweigh the pros Pros: It more accurately simulates a natural nectar flow, as the bees exit the hive and forage for the syrup. This can help promote more brood production, but only minimally. You don’t have to open your hives to feed them. Cons: Strong hives tend to gather the most, and weaker hives tend to gather very little. Thus, weaker hives still have to be fed internally. Bees can share viruses and mites as they congregate tightly together at feeders. You are feeding all the bees in the neighborhood, not just yours. If the weather is rainy or cool, bees won’t forage for syrup. Lots of other animals love syrup as well! If you do choose to open feed, make sure the feeder prevents the bees from drowning. Typically, a 1:1 syrup works best, as bees more readily forage on 1:1, and are less likely to drown. An inverted bucket of syrup, with very small holes drilled in the edge of the bucket, allowing the rim to fill with syrup works well. Alternatively, a chicken waterer works perfectly too! Photo Credit: KeepingBackYardBees.com Check out this DIY open feeder bucket link!
By: Blake Shook
James & Chari Elam Texas Bee Supply Instructors Owners Blue Ribbon Honey Company
1/1 vs 2/1 Syrup Feeding
Harrison Rogers Vice President Harris County Beekeepers Association Treasurer - Real Texas Honey Program Certified Texas Master Beekeeper
Want more bang for your buck? Try our Essential Oil Infused Pre-Made Syrup!
Sugar Syrup Recipe
1/1 (Most like Nectar for feeding larvae and drawing out honeycomb) Spring/Summer - 1 Part Sugar with 1 Part Water 4 pound bag of sugar formula: 8 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 3 ½ quart jars or 1 gallon 10 pound bag of sugar formula: 20 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 8 ¾ quart jars or 2 ½ gallons 2/1 (Most like Honey for consumption) Fall/Winter - 2 Parts Sugar with 1 Part Water 4 pound bag of sugar formula: 4 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 2 quart jars or ½ gallon 10 pound bag of sugar formula: 10 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 4 ½ quarts or 1 ½ gallons Directions: 1/1 syrup mixture - only requires “hot as can be” tap water. Add sugar and water together and stir or shake until dissolved. 2/1 syrup mixture - Heat water on med/high heat in a large stock pot “just till marbling (slow swirl)” NOT BUBBLING –boiling will cause syrup to candy Add sugar stirring constantly Turn off heat when sugar has all been added Stir occasionally (every 10-15 minutes) until all dissolved Syrup will be clear but “opaque” These formulas are “volume” mixture not weight. By weight formulas are “slightly” different.
Dodie Stillman President Austin Area Beekeepers Association Master Beekeeper
Tara Chapman Featured on the Today Show, Vice Media and Eating Well Magazine Two Hives Honey - Austin, TX
2022 Pre-Orders by September 13th! Need Bees?
Find Out More!
WoW! 2022 is going to bee a GREAT Year! These Hives look Fabulous!
Photo Credit: Becky Nelson
Why Feed Pollen Substitutes? I'm glad you asked!
It’s a fair question. Is pollen substitute actually necessary? Why should you feed pollen substitute at all? Don’t the bees gather pollen themselves? Honey/syrup are the carbs in a bee’s diet, and pollen/pollen substitute is their protein. They must have sufficient quantities of each to raise brood and survive as a hive. We can also use food to manipulate hives to grow faster and stay healthier during certain times of the year. This is especially true with pollen subs. I recommend primarily using purchased, pre-made pollen patties. I don’t recommend making homemade patties. Ok, now to finally answer the question, “Why feed pollen substitute”? If you have a strong, year around, multi-source pollen flow, you don’t need pollen substitute. Chances are (unless you live in the tropics) this is not the case for you. There are major summer droughts, freezes, winter, etc. that prevent the quantity and quality of natural pollen needed. So, we feed pollen sub to accomplish three primary goals: Feeding 2-3 months before the first freeze to help our bees rear healthy bees going into the winter by ensuring they have all the nutrients needed as they rear brood. In essence, during the late summer and early fall workers rear a different kind of bee...a “winter bee” that is raised to live much longer than summer bees. These winter bees need a very complete diet to have the fat stores and immune systems needed to survive the winter. A poor pollen flow, or a single source pollen that isn’t nutritionally sufficient (think eating nothing but pizza), won’t enable them to raise healthy winter bees. Feeding pollen sub, and syrup if needed, ensures they have the needed protein and nutrition to successfully raise winter bees. To extend brood rearing. By feeding pollen substitute approximately a month after the first freeze, and 2 weeks before your first pollen blooming plants in the spring can help the bees rear brood later and longer than normal. This helps increase the hive's population, which, no matter the season, is a good thing! 3. To prevent nutritional deficits during pollen dearths. I alluded to this in #1, but if we have a dry summer or a late spring freeze, and little to no pollen producing plants, our hives can begin to starve nutritionally if sufficient pollen and pollen variety is not present. When this happens, the bees begin to cannibalize the brood, which dramatically reduces the health and population of the hive. Feeding pollen substitute and syrup during these dearths can save your hive! Where to place Pollen Patties Pollen patty placement is, thankfully, pretty simple! You’ll notice the purchased patty has wax paper on both sides. That wax paper serves the important role of keeping the patty moist as the bees eat it. They will chew it up and throw it out the front door of the hive. The patty should be placed in between your two brood boxes, or in between the two boxes that are most full of bees. You want it in the heart of the hive. Smoke the bees off the top bars, lay the patty down in the very center, and set the box on top of it. It’s thin enough to fit in between the two boxes. A strong hive should eat a 1 lb patty in 1 week to 10 days. In regions where Small Hive Beetles are a problem, cut the 1 lb patty into smaller portions, hence reducing the amount of patty available for SHB to use as a breeding ground. You’ll need to replenish more often, but it's well worth it to avoid a hive beetle take over. Ok, now let’s take a step back. Just how critical is all this feeding? To be honest, some years it doesn’t make much of a difference. And some years, it makes all the difference between a 10% loss rate and an 80% loss rate. The harsher the weather, and more severe the pollen shortages, the more critical the feeding. If you live in an area that has a consistent pollen flow all spring, summer, and fall, you may not need to do much feeding. However, for most areas it can be a huge help. I always recommend beekeepers try things for themselves and see what works. Try feeding pollen sub to half of your hives, and not the other half, and see which do better over the summer and winter.
FALL SPLITS
ASK THE EXPERTS How do they make Fall Splits?
Doing a Fall split can be a bit tricky due to the fact you are in a race against the upcoming winter, and you need the hive to grow as quickly as possible! The most common reason for failure in fall splits is letting the hive raise their own queen and not giving a split enough brood to grow quickly. But, if all goes well, you should be able to add a second brood box to the split within 4 weeks. That second box should be filled within 4-6 weeks. Continuous feeding is essential in the south. In the north, it will vary based on the area. If bees are not bringing in large amounts of nectar and drawing out new combs, then feeding is needed. Start with at least 8 deep frames of brood. Use a mated queen as opposed to letting them raise their own. Locate queen or make split and identify Queenless split within 3 – 4 days. Split using 4 frames of brood and ideally 2 frames of honey. Fill the rest of the space with frames of empty comb, foundation, or frames of honey/pollen. Install the new queen within 0-12 hours. If you wait more than 24 hours you will need to remove any queen cells the bees have begun to raise. Feed both hives if there is not a strong natural fall nectar flow.
By: Sandy Murray & Cyrus Nasr
Moving bees can seem like a daunting task for a beekeeper. As seasoned beekeepers with over 150 hives at Hive Bee Farm we get lots of questions like... How do you move 30-80 thousand angry bees safely? What if they have multiple boxes? How far should I move them? What if they escape during transport, and will they be able to find their home again? There are many reasons one might need or want to move a hive locally (non-commercial moves) like moving a hive to a safer location, better forage or relocating a hive to a new property or owner. The key to any beehive transportation is preparation and planning. We are happy to share our knowledge to a few of the most asked questions on bee transportation. The following tools are key to your move: Ratchet straps Duct Tape (or other strong multipurpose tape) Extra hive tops (if you have a large hive you need to divide it to move it) Transportation appropriate for the job Beekeeping safety gear (full suit, boots and gloves are recommended) Smoker & Smoker fuel When should I move my beehive? As a general rule you want to move your bees in the evening after they have returned home from foraging. This is usually after sunset and will ensure you have the majority of your bees in the hive. You will need to use your smoker to encourage any bees on the outside of the hive (like on our hot Texas nights) to go inside the hive so it can be secured. Plan to transport your hive(s) to the new location the same evening and plan to open their entrances once set up at the new site. DO NOT FORGET TO OPEN THE ENTRANCES. If the bees are locked into the hive during the day they can easily overheat. How do I close the entrance? There are a number of methods to close a hive for transportation. The easiest is to use a strong multipurpose tape, like Duct Tape or Gorilla Tape. Once you have encouraged (by smoking) any bees on the outside to go inside the hive, place multiple strips of tape across the entrance reducer. This will create a strong, secure barrier that will not easily open in transportation. If you are traveling long distances and not be able to open the hive before sunrise, consider using a combination of screen (like window screen from your local hardware store) to allow for airflow during transport. Cut the screen to fit over the entrance opening and secure with tape or heavy-duty staples to the box. This will prevent the hive from overheating during extended transports and confinement time. Tip: Check for any holes, cracks or gaps in the boxes. If found, cover with tape to prevent the bees from escaping from another exit point - especially if using an old screened bottom board. How do I keep the hive boxes together during transportation? Ratchet straps, (found at any hardware store) are the perfect tool for securing your hive boxes together. Once you have closed the entrance, loop the ratchet strap around the hive and lock into place. The strap will keep the hive boxes tightly bound together and prevent them from shifting in transport. If you are transporting with a trailer or truck bed it is also good practice to use straps across the hives to keep them stable on the road. What if my hive is too heavy to move (too many boxes)? Bee hive colonies in Langstroth or Warre boxes can get pretty tall and heavy. The brood boxes themselves can weigh 60 lbs and the honey supers can weigh anywhere from 40 lbs to 100 lbs depending on the size. Unless you have a football team to help you lift them, you might need to separate the hive into individual boxes to move it safely and successfully. Primarily, you want to move the brood boxes together as one and then the honey supers separately. This keeps the bees with the brood so they can continue to monitor and tend to it. Use extra hive tops to enclose the honey supers (bottom and top.) Then tape and ratchet strap them together to secure any bees left inside. You will need to consider if there is enough time the evening of the move to take off the honey boxes or if it would be better to do it earlier in the day, allowing the bees time to settle before the move. The volume of bees in the hive and number of boxes should be factors in your decision. I have a Top Bar hive, are there special considerations for moving it? Similar to other box-based hives you will need to close the entrance as well as secure the frames and top with ratchet straps. Unfortunately, you won’t be able to divide it into smaller pieces to move so you will need enough helpers to safely lift and move it. A trailer or a truck would be the preferred transportation vehicle for long distances and additional straps to hold it down in transport. You may or may not need to remove the legs to get it to fit into a truck bed and have a safer, lower center of gravity during transport. Will my bees get angry and be aggressive during the move? Even bees that are usually docile can get upset during a move. You will be closing them up inside the hive, moving it and might even travel on a bouncy ride too! The jostling and movement can easily upset even the most well-behaved bees. Wear a suit and utilize your best tool – your smoker – to help keep them calm. When you open the hive at the new site, be prepared: they may come pouring out… Again, a bee suit is your best friend and very important to wear when transporting bees. When using a light at night, keep in mind they will be attracted to it. Some say a red light helps because bees don’t mind it as much. Make sure to check your environment. Do you need to ask neighbors to be inside during the move? Put up pets or other livestock in case the bees get feisty? Don’t hesitate to BEE Safe! Editor's Note: Super DFM is great to use before and after a move to help your bees cope with the stress of moving. How do I transport a newly purchased Nuc (nucleus colony)? This is one of the easiest moves. Most suppliers use the plastic Jester EZ Nuc or Pro Nuc boxes. The Jester box has an entrance tab that you push down to close and then use your hive tool to pop open when you get to the new location (when not placing into the new hive immediately). The Pro Nuc has an entrance that slides up to open or down to close. For either box, a few good pieces of tape will keep the lid down in transit. For single Nucs you can place the whole Nuc into a mesh laundry bag or specially made Nuc mesh bags with a zipper that containing the bees nicely. Nuc’s are much lighter than hives so be sure to secure them inside the vehicle so they are stable (bee seatbelt). When transporting a large amount of Nucs (20+), either in a truck bed or trailer, we suggest using 2x2's and/or 2x4's to stack them, allowing 3” in front and back of the Nuc for airflow. If you are purchasing from a reputable supplier, the Nuc should be jam packed with bees and can get hot very - very fast. Again, DO NOT FORGET TO OPEN THE ENTRANCES at the new location once you have set them in place. Does it matter how far I move my hive? A good gauge to moving hives is the “3ft or 3 miles” rule. You can do small moves up to 3ft without much trouble. The bees will be able to find the hive and don’t require much fuss. They can still use their surroundings and internal GPS to locate it (as well as smell). If you move a hive farther than 3ft but less than 3 miles you will want to consider leaving a Nuc box or other containment for any straggling bees to congregate on that were not in the hive when it was moved or go back to the old location after foraging. Each evening, move the temporary box to the new location and those bees will join their hive and orient from the new location the following day. You can also change the way the hive faces and block the entrance with some branches so they have to work to get in and out, forcing them to reorient to the new location. The branch can be removed after a few days, just be sure not to close off the entrance. At 3 miles, the new hive is far enough away from the old location the bees won’t be able to navigate back to the original location – and any newly hatched bees will only know the new home. What type of transportation is best? Transportation (car, truck, trailer, or wheelbarrow) is primarily determined by distance, the number of hives you are transporting and your resources. We’ve moved hives in all types of “wheeled” vehicles or just a few feet away with two strong beekeepers. We’ve even moved them inside a car with us when we had to! Imagine 9 hives in a Tahoe with one beekeeper snug in the middle seat. Talk about getting up close and personal with your bees! In all situations you do want to consider the temperature of the bees. If inside a car, keep that AC blowing. If you are moving far distances make sure the bed of the truck or trailer has enough air movement to keep the hives cool. We all have an internal fear of being enclosed in a car with bees flying around – but with proper planning (and tape) we can help alleviate that risk. If a few get out, remember that they are attracted to the windows/lights and not very interested in the driver. Stay calm and suited up so you can get to your location safely. Safety FIRST as they say! Last tips & tricks: It probably goes without saying (but we will) – having a plan, your bee suit and a well-lit smoker are the best tips we can give you. Beyond that, try to limit the amount of jostling to prevent damage to the comb inside the hive and upsetting the bees. In addition, make sure the destination is already set up and ready for when you arrive with your hives. If you are trying to do everything at once (in the dark) it can be very challenging. Be careful of your surroundings. It’s not fun dropping a full double deep, a brand new Nuc with a frame feeder full of syrup, or even worse, have a heavy hive fall on you! Be prepared to call off the move if you are not fully ready or the bees just won’t cooperate in the process. It’s perfectly ok to try again another day and not endure the sting of 100’s of bees. Lastly, because this has happened to us and bears repeating… DO NOT FORGET TO OPEN THE ENTRANCES (did we say that enough?) And double check you opened each one. Even as seasoned keepers we’ve gotten busy or tired and missed one with disastrous results. Moving bees is part of beekeeping and at some point you will likely have to do it. With a good plan it can be easy for you and your bees. Have specific questions? Feel free to reach out to us at contact@hivebeefarm.com.
Bees on the Move
Michael Kelling President Central Texas Beekeepers Association Master Beekeeper
How to Move Bees The Long & Short of it!
Cameron Crane Liberty County Beekeepers Association Owner Crane Meadows
Sandy Murray and Cyrus Nasr own and operate Hive Bee Farm in Houston TX. Together they teach workshops, provide a service for Agricultural Tax Exemptions with bees, Apitherapy and a full line of honey products. Sandy is the current President for Houston Beekeepers Association and Cyrus a well respected mentor to the beekeeping industry.
When we think of the Varroa Mite, we think it must have been a problem for our bees forever! That’s actually not true! Varroa mites are a native parasite from Asia and the Asian honey bee, Apis Cerana. It wasn’t until 1987 that the shores of the United States were invaded by this “Varroa Destructor,” that it became the number 1 killer of our (also not native) Apis Mallifera. In the last 34 years, millions (if not trillions) of dollars have been spent researching this devastating pest that changed beekeeping as we knew it. Beyond chemical treatments and beekeeping practices, genetics have long been thought of as the answer to the problem. Fast forward to today – great strides have been made in the development of honey bees carrying the genetic tendencies to detect and destroy Varroa reproducing under a wax capped cell (Varroa Sensitive Hygienic – VSH). Is it the answer? Unfortunately, no…The vast majority of the time, you will still need to use some form of treatment (chemical or natural). The best widely available VSH bees are perhaps 10-20% better at removing mites from themselves and the brood than non VSH varieties. While that does have advantages, it isn’t nearly enough to not control Varroa mites and expect a hive to survive. It’s best to try a variety of breeds of bees and see what works best for your area and hives. That may or may not end up being VSH bees. Doing regular testing will be your own field study. There are many other very important facts, like honey production, gentleness, resistance to foulbroods, etc. to consider as well. Armed with this information, you can then make the determination for yourself! You may ask, “If I don’t treat for Varroa Mites, will my bees eventually become naturally resistant?” Again…unfortunately, no. Not controlling Varroa will allow the spread of mites to your other hives and often all the hives within a few miles of your own bees. Not controlling Varroa in some manner is irresponsible as a beekeeper, and inhumane to the bees. Just like we wouldn’t avoid treating a pet for an infestation of fleas, mites, or ticks, especially if it could lead to their death, we wouldn’t avoid practicing proper animal husbandry and take care of our bees! Breeding bees to become consistently resistant to mites has been the lifetime pursuit of many brilliant beekeepers and scientists, but we still aren’t there yet. Do your due diligence to control and manage Varroa Mites to the best of your ability and hopefully one day this pest will be all but a memory. If I buy Mite Resistant Bees, do I have to treat? Ask the Experts!
Lauren Ward
VSH Queens The New Age in Varroa Management?
Check out this Helpful Resource Our Monthly Tips guide for ALL levels of beekeepers will keep you on top of what's going on in your hive and what you should be doing for your bees! Pick one up FREE the next time you're in the store! Need Help answering a question? Our staff are very knowledgeable and eager to help! Not able to come in? Email us at: Help@TexasBeeSupply.com
DON'T MISS THIS MEETING! SEPTEMBER 2nd - 6:30 PM August Webinar Guest Speaker: Biologist - Randy Oliver scientificbeekeeping.com One of the most read and followed beekeepers in the industry! Unable to attend? Sign up anyway! Recorded version will be sent to your email inbox within days of the event.
WEBINAR REGISTRATION
ScienceDirect.com
Credit for this article goes primarily to Randy Oliver and his non-profit organization ScientificBeekeeping.com. Randy Oliver started beekeeping as a hobby around 1966, and then went on to get university degrees in biology sciences, specializing in entomology. I highly recommend using Randy’s website as a resource, and while you’re there contribute to his organization. Randy wrote two articles in 2007 about vitellogenin which prompted me to try to understand and summarize the benefits of vitellogenin in honey bees. If you’re like me, you’ve probably never heard of vitellogenin and its benefits, but it is critical to the survival of honey bees. As you read this article you will soon learn all of these benefits and the importance of them. Vitellogenin molecules are deposited in fat bodies in the head and abdomen of bees and act as a protein storage reservoir. This primarily occurs in the form of the compound called “vitellogenin.” Its main component is protein (91%) with a bit of sugar (glycol, 2%) and fat (lipo, 7%). As we know, pollen is a valuable resource of protein for honey bees. Interestingly, research has shown that bees are genetically biased to collect pollen containing high levels of vitellogenin. Bees also collect pollen from a variety of plants. The selection and variety of pollen gathered is vital because the pollen varies in its composition of amino acids, which are the building blocks for protein. When pollen is unavailable, or the availability is low, the nurse bees in the bee colony have use of reserve vitellogenin to sustain the young and secrete brood food. Foragers on the other hand, are only fed enough protein to keep them working to collect nectar and pollen. Vitellogenin also enhances the immune system and increases the lifespan – particularly in the queen and winter fat bees. We’ve all heard of winter bees, royal jelly, and the length of time a queen can live. It is the molecule vitellogenin that makes this phenomenon possible. This stored-up-protein- reserve also allow the nurse bees to secrete brood food in the spring – even in the absence of new pollen. During the first two days of the worker bee’s life, they are fed “worker jelly.” This is a lipid-rich mixture obtained from pollen, produced in the mandibular glands, and a clear, protein-rich secretion from the hypopharyngeal glands. Both glands are located in the head of the nurse bees. Thereafter, the worker larvae receive a mixture of nectar from the honey sac (or honey stomach) and a jelly protein from the hypopharyngeal gland – known as “bee milk.” This glandular-secreted milk is the perfect food for young bees. In order to produce a queen bee, the larva is continuously fed a secreted jelly substance from both the mandibular and hypopharyngeal glands of the worker bee. This secretion has a higher sugar content and vitamins that are different from the worker food – and is known as Royal Jelly. When the larva is in the cell and continuously fed substantial amounts of royal jelly, it triggers the development of queen anatomy. When the queen emerges, she will have fully developed ovaries needed to lay eggs as well as a developed Spermatheca (undeveloped in worker bees) needed to fertilize eggs. During the queen’s entire life, she is fed large quantities of royal jelly by the nurse bees. This nutritional substance is necessary since the mated queen is laying nearly her body weight in eggs every day during peak colony buildup. Every beekeeper should understand the main nutrition of the colony comes from pollen collected from various plant sources by the foraging bees. Pollen provides the necessary nutrients bees need for growth and health such as protein, lipids (fats), minerals, sterols and vitamins. Foraging bees gather between 30 to 100 pounds of pollen each year. Pollen dearth Pollen collection by foraging bees is triggered by released brood pheromones and the amount of pollen stored in the hive and the jelly fed to the foragers by nurse bees. Interestingly, brood pheromones are released by the brood and allow the brood to regulate and control the actions of the nurse bees. Sounds backwards, but it’s true: the brood controls the workers. As experienced this spring, the rain washed away much of the pollen in the plants and the nurse bees were forced to use the vitellogenin stores. Studies have shown that when the protein levels drop, the nurse bees will give preference to feeding the older larvae close to being capped. If the protein levels drop lower, eggs and middle-aged larvae will be cannibalized. The cannibalized brood will be converted into protein. Fat Bees/Winter Bees Research has theorized that the Fat Bees or Winter Bees evolved as the European honey bees moved into climates of colder weather. It’s the buildup of vitellogenin protein energy reserves that allows the European honey bees to live through the winter months, or even longer with no pollen resources. The European honey bee has also supposedly evolved to store honey which is their carbohydrate energy source. Conversely, the African honey bee, or Africanized honey bees as it’s known in the Americas, strategically search for new food resources rather than storing honey. This lack of storage hinders their progress northward to colder climates. Because the queen fertilizes eggs to become fat bees and they survive scarce resources, fat bees have been considered a separate cast. The general view of the caste system is a “physically distinct individual or group of individuals specialized to perform certain functions in the colony.” Due to their physical difference with their fat bodies and because they perform specific functions in the colony during the winter, they can be considered a separate caste. In summary, this magical molecule allows house bees to retain protein in their bodies in the form of vitellogenin. Vitellogenin gives an extra resource to nurse bees and queens allowing them to live longer and make it through periods of limited pollen availability – what grand specialization!
By: Ed Erwin
Vitellogenin The Miracle Molecule
Ed Erwin is the founder of BeeHarmony.org and the Mentor Director for Montgomery County Beekeepers Association
Graphic Credit: Elizabeth Pennisi Science Magazine - Vol 326 - 2009
Specks in my Honey Q. When I extracted honey this year it had little specks in it. What is that and what can I do about it? A. When we extract honey from comb it's inevitable we're going to get more than just honey. Often we see bee parts, pollen and even some dirt. If it’s evenly distributed specks, it’s more likely to be just dirt particles from either the equipment or from the frames when they were extracted. My suggestion is to strain it through a 600-micron filter. If still more cleaning is needed, keep stepping up with finer filters – 400 then 200 (being the finest). You will eventually clean it all out. Unfortunately, you’ll also remove some if not all the pollen in the honey, but given the choice… I’d rather not have the dirt particles. Treating with a super on Q. I need to treat for Varroa mites, but I still have a super on my hive. I was just planning to leave it for the bees, but is that honey OK for them to eat it if it’s been in there during treatment? A. The short answer is, yes. Your bees can consume the capped honey left on while Varroa treatments were used. I would suggest however, marking those frames so that they don’t accidentally get back into the mix of extractable honey frames. Unwanted Medium Brood Box Q. I ended up with a medium as my second brood box and now I want to get it out of the mix. How do I convert it to a deep like my other box? A. This is a common question, and it’s actually pretty simple. Take each medium frame and shake off all the bees down into the bottom box. Once you’ve done that, place a queen excluder between the deep bottom box and the medium box. Wait a couple of weeks for all of the brood to emerge, then you can remove the medium box. The biggest issue you’ll run into is now you’re down to a single brood box. If you still need the space of a second box, make sure you have some deep drawn comb to add into that new second deep. This isn’t the time of year to start on a second deep from scratch. If you don’t have any, I would wait until early spring and do the switch. Crazy Comb Q. I accidentally left a frame out in my top box and now my bees have a bunch of crazy comb in its place. Should I just throw it away or leave it? A. You are NOT the first person to do this…myself included! You have a few choices. If it’s brood comb, you can take the plastic foundation out of a frame and cut that comb to fit in its place. Rubber band it in or wire it to stay in place. The bees will attach it to the frame in short order. If it’s honey or pollen, most of the time it isn’t completely full and can just be discarded or saved to melt down. In that case, take it out and replace with a new frame. Failing Split Q. I made my first split this year but it’s still not filling up a box. I’m concerned it won’t make it through winter as small as it is. Should I add bees or just combine it with another hive? A. Either is fine “now.” Any later in the season you’ll need to just combine it with another hive. The reason: Taking bees, brood, or resources from a donor hive in September is fine… but not in October or later. You need time for the donor hive to recover, as well as the weaker hive time to make good with the donation. With the fall flow here, try giving the hive a frame of capped brood (nearing emergence) and maybe a frame with a mixture of open and capped brood (and the bees that are on it). When you do this, smoke the hive, and shake the bees from that frame off at the entrance to the new hive and let them walk in instead of forced in on the frame. You’ll find the hive will accept them faster and with less arguing this way. Once that capped brood emerges and starts to go to work, that may be the shot in the arm that gets them going. Within a few weeks you should see a significant difference. If not, I’d cut my losses – combine it with another hive. Check out the videos in the “Fall is Coming” article at the beginning of this issue. Good luck!
Monthly Q & A
Have a Question? Email us at help@TexasBeeSupply.com
When & How to Throw Away Aging Frames and Comb
As with many topics in beekeeping, there is much room for debate on comb rotation as well. There is no hard and fast rule as to when combs should be rotated. The problem is not that comb darkens or gets dark. The darker and heavier the frame becomes with wax and debris is simply an indicator of the age of the combs. Why is the Comb so Dark? I have some good news and bad news. The good news is, comb darkening with time is completely natural. The bad news is that eventually, it is best to replace old, dark combs. Bees continually track debris over them as they walk causing some darkening. Brood combs darken even faster, due to cocoons shed by the developing bees, which are stuck to the inside walls of each cell. Comb darkening is not a bad thing and doesn’t affect the hive. Again, age isn’t necessarily a problem. The problem is that wax is very absorbent and tends to soak in chemicals we put in the hive to control Varroa mites, as well as chemicals brought in on the bees from the environment outside. How many chemicals are brought in, or put in, and thus absorbed into the wax is hard to determine on a per hive basis. Not knowing exactly what the levels are, we typically rotate out old BROOD frames and replace them with new ones every 7-10 years. When you purchase new frames, it is a great idea to write the year on the top bars so that you know when they need to be replaced in the future. Frames that we use exclusively for supers tend to last longer, since they are not on the hives year around, thus get less use. They also don’t typically have any, or as much brood being laid in them. As a result, you may never have to rotate and discard frames used exclusively in the honey supers. When it comes time to replace old brood frames, if they have honey in them, you can set the frames 20-30 feet from your hive and let the bees rob the honey out before discarding. If the frames have brood, move the frame so that it’s the very outside frame of the brood nest. Now being on the outer edge of the box, wait till late winter/early spring, and that frame will often be empty and can be pulled out and discarded. Using this method, of always moving older frames towards the outside of the box, is a great way to rotate through combs. One final note - when you add in new frames, don’t put them in the very middle of the brood nest, since it’s never a good idea to separate frames of brood. You always want to keep frames of brood together. So, put the new replacement frames on the outside edge of the box, or on the outside edge of the brood nest.
Lauren Ward Entomologist A Bar Beekeeping
30% more wax coating per frame = faster drawing out time 10% MORE CELLS per frame Wax Coating from 100% Capping Wax, No Paraffin Fillers Premium Quality Wood Real Titebond III Wood glue 100% USA Sourced & Made Industry Comparable Pricing Double Wax Coating Available
EXCLUSIVE TEXAS DISTRIBUTOR
Replacing Dark, Old Comb
REVOLUTIONARY FRAME AND FOUNDATION
BULK PRICING AVAILABLE
Blake Shook Owner Desert Creek Honey and Co- Owner Texas Bee Supply
Who doesn't love a big ol' Sloppy Joe? Have you ever thought about adding honey to the recipe? Well here you go! ENJOY!!
Honey Joes
YIELD: Makes 4 servings INGREDIENTS 1/4 cup-onions,chopped 1/4 cup-celery,chopped 1/4 cup-carrots,grated 2 T-vegetable oil 1 lb.-ground turkey or beef 1/2 cup-tomato paste 1/4 cup-honey 3 T-water 1 T-vinegar 2 tsp.-Worcestershire sauce 1 1/2 tsp.-chili powder 4-hamburger buns salt and pepper,to taste DIRECTIONS In a large pan over medium heat, sauté onions, celery and carrots in oil until soft. Stir in turkey or beef; cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently, until turkey or beef is browned and crumbly. Stir in remaining ingredients, except seasonings and hamburger buns. Simmer, covered, 3 to 5 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide mixture evenly between hamburger buns to serve.
Walker County Beekeepers Association 1402 19th Street Huntsville, TX 77340 Last Thursday of each month Q & A on the front porch at 6:30, meeting at 7:00 PM
Calling All Bee Clubs! Need a presenter for your club? Let Texas Bee Supply help!
Denton County Beekeepers Association Meets the 2nd Tuesday of each month both in-person and on zoom! Dates, location and link may be found at www.dentonbees.com and on Facebook
Austin Area Beekeepers Association Third Thursday each month at 7:00 pm Frickett Scout Center For meeting details CLICK HERE!
Hays County Beekeepers Association In - Person meetings every 3rd Wednesday of the month 6:30 -9pm at Suds Monkey Brewing Company - 12024 US-290, Austin, TX Meetings are also broadcast via Zoom and recorded link (CLICK HERE)
BOOK IT!
Central Texas Beekeepers Association Washington County Fairgrounds VIP room August 26th James & Chari Elam 4th Thursday of each month, 7:00 pm For more information go to CentralTexasBeekeepers.org
Club Announcements
Elm Fork Beekeepers 3rd Thursday each month in person or Zoom at the VFW Hall in Gainsville, TX. For Zoom access to our meetings for 2021 Go to: elmforkbeekeepers.org for link.
Always FREE! Zoom (Anywhere) or In- Person (Area restrictions apply) Enjoy a 1 hour LIVE Presentation from one of our presenters! You choose the topic!
Lamar County Beekeepers Association Meets 1st Thursday each month at 6:30 Red River Valley Fairground - Building B Paris, Texas
Montgomery County Beekeepers Association 3rd Monday of each month 9020 Airport Rd. Conroe, TX 77303 Non-members welcome! www.mocobees.com
Kaufman Area Beekeepers Association Second Tuesday each month at 6:30 pm United Methodist Church, 208 S. Houston St. Kaufman, TX New Beekeepers Q & A 5:45-6:15
Comal County BeeKeepers Association First Thursday each month at 6:30 - 7:00 dinner - 7:00 - 8:30 meeting Beefy's on the Green - Spring Branch, TX
Pineywoods Beekeepers Association 2nd Thursday each month Lufkin Angelina County Chamber of Commerce 1615 S. Chestnut (just off Loop 287 across from Lowe's) Lufkin, TX
Wood County Beekeepers Association 1st Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm! The current meeting location is the Winnsboro Civic Center
Houston Beekeepers Association 3rd Tuesday each month in person at The Jung Center, 5200 Montrose Blvd, Houston, TX 77006. HoustonBeekeepers.org
Liberty County Beekeepers Association First Tuesday each month at 6:30 Texas Bee Supply in Dayton/Huffman For more information go to LibertyCountyBeekeepers.org
Check out our library of videos on YouTube! Subscribe today - It's FREE!
For real time info, click here
Incredible Photograph By: Jennifer Tiftickjian
Texas Drought Status