July 2023
www.TheBeeSupply.com
THE BEE SUPPLY
Monthly
Cover Photo:Patrick Mahaffey
Feature Topics Summer Bee & Beekeeper Management How Much Honey Should I Leave? Feeding Post Harvest Summer Splits
Edition 37
Contents
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Clicking on a Topic will take you right to it!
Table Of
We welcome your feedback and submissions! editor@thebeesupply.com Beekeeping Questions: help@thebeesupply.com
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6 Monthly Tips 12 Summer Bee & Beekeeper Management 15 There's Mold in My Feeder! 16 Why are My Bees So Mean? 18 How Much Honey Should I Leave for My Bees? 20 Hive Ready to Harvest Checklist 22 How to Remove Bees From Supers 24 I Don't Have an Extractor - What do I do? 26 Cleaning & Storing Extracted Honey Supers 27 Quick Tip: How to Build a Movable Box Storage Tower 28 Expert Beekeeper: Becky Barajas
July
30 Feeding Post Harvest 34 What's Bugging You? Varroa Mites! 36 What to do if Your Harvest Honey is High Moisture 37 How to Use a Refractometer 38 Summer Splits 40 What's the Buzz? Robbing & Robbing Screens 44 Beyond Bees - Monarch Butterflies 46 Recipe: Radicchio & Prosciutto Salad 48 Monthly Buzz Q&A 49 Club Directory 50 U.S. Drought Map
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For the southern states, the nectar flow is usually completely finished by early July. If you plan to harvest your honey, it should be harvested quickly to ensure the bees do not consume too much of their stores. See the June Tips regarding honey harvesting. In areas where the nectar flow still continues, closely monitor your honey supers, adding additional boxes as each becomes 80% full unless you are within 2 weeks of the end of the flow. Your bees are entering one of the most critical periods of the entire year. Varroa mite populations typically peak in July, making treatment critical once honey is removed no matter where you live. Use a treatment able to withstand high temperatures, like Apivar. Any thymol-based treatment does not do well in high temperatures. Oxalic Acid is only effective during a broodless period. Apistan and Checkmite are no longer viable due to mite resistance. Hopguard can be somewhat effective, but make sure to test for mites after treatment as it can be ineffective in some conditions. Apivar is currently the most effective and reliable treatment in high temperatures. Of importance immediately after harvesting honey is feeding your bees. In July there are virtually no major nectar producing flowers blooming. But your bees are still rearing brood and still require large amounts of food to maintain their strength. Thus, we encourage all beekeepers to begin feeding and not stop until each hive has a 30 lb. surplus of syrup stored in the second box. This will guarantee your hive of bees has the resources it needs to live and thrive. Even a few weeks without enough food, or with excessively high mite levels can drastically damage your hive. Heat is much harder on bees than cold, and some particularly hot areas pose some unique challenges for hives. In addition to treating mites and feeding immediately, be sure to provide a water source for your hive and to slightly crack the lid for additional ventilation. Adding an empty box above your current boxes can provide some dead air space and a buffer from the hot lid. Make sure your hive has at least 2 boxes instead of 1 deep box. One of the most important things to keep in mind as a beekeeper is: winter preparation begins as soon as you harvest honey. Many beekeepers begin winter preparation when the first major cold front hits in October or November, but that is far too late. Most “winter” losses are actually a result of improper care during the summer months. Hives may appear alive and well over the summer but can actually be starving and infested with mites which are transferring viruses to the bees. You may not notice a dramatic decline until the issues have reached a critical point in fall or winter, but the invisible damage was likely done over the summer. If you want to grow your hive-count in the following year, you can place supers of foundation directly on top of your brood nest and feed the hive heavily over the summer. The bees will draw out the comb, which can give you your comb for the next year, eliminating the need to draw out foundation on a honey flow. The constant food and the chance to work is great for the bees over the summer months as well.
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By: Blake Shook
July Tips
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HOUSTON AREA STORE 351 County Road 6243 Dayton, TX 77535
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James and Chari Elam answer your questions LIVE and present short practical timely topics.
Upcoming Agenda
Live in the Bee Yard Tips July Tips Preparing for Summer Summer Feeding Varroa Testing and Management Nectar flow over? Winter prep in July!
Photo Credit: Nanette Davis
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By Chari Elam
It’s here – the heat that is! Whoa! When you hear your co-workers complaining about it, you should invite them to put on your bee suit and go do pushups on the asphalt parking lot to get a feel for what “we’re” going through – ha-ha! … well maybe not that bad – but there are days, right?! That does bring out a real issue we are all about to face, and that’s overheating. You wouldn’t think any of us would need to be told “Don’t get too hot!” but we do. I admit I have overheated multiple times in the bee yard – especially in July. For me it’s pulling supers. We get out there and there is a task to be done and we’re going to get it done by gosh by golly, and my “girlness” isn’t going to stop me!! Truth be known, heat stroke isn’t gender specific – as evident in the cover photo of this article. Take care of yourself AND your bees! There are some very easy steps that can be taken to prevent you and your bees from overheating. For Beekeepers Wear a head band and a cooling cloth around your neck. If possible, keep your vehicle running to jump in for frequent air-conditioned cool-down breaks. Utilize a pop-up canopy Work bees earlier in the day (before lunch). Have a helper to aid in lifting and also to help in case you do overheat. Drink hydrating drinks (Gatorade) + water. Signs of overheating Fatigue Thirst Excessive sweating (if this progresses to NO sweating, this can be a true medical emergency) Skin becoming pale and clammy Heat rash Muscle cramps Fast breathing or heartbeat High body temperature DO NOT TAKE THESE SYMPTOMS LIGHTLY – Stop working and address any symptoms right away and seek medical help if you need to. What our bees need from us as summer heats up. You’ve heard me say many times that bees are very good thermoregulators. Most often they can handle the heat much better than we wimpy beekeepers. This is accomplished through the flapping of their wings near the entrance, generating a circulation of cooled humid air derived from stored water within the hive. This process effectively maintains an interior temperature that is comfortable and tolerable for the bees. To aid in this, you’ll often see a number of bees hanging out on the front entrance as well – helping alleviate the heat generated by a heavy population inside. To aid in their comfort I recommend putting spacers up under the 4 corners of the lid, such as pennies, toothpicks… etc. This, along with removing the board under the screened bottom, helps the bees immensely. Food and water Water sources can dry up as summer progresses. Depending on how many bees you have determines how you address keeping a water supply for them. For larger bee yards (a dozen or more hives), if water is available, a stock tank with a float works well. If no water is available, 5-gallon buckets (as shown) are a great solution. If you’re only needing to keep a few hives hydrated, a chicken waterer will do the trick…as does a bird bath with rocks in it. We’ve found that a bird bath evaporates so quickly it’s nearly a moot point – but I will say, we do try. Plus, it is super funny to watch birds and bees duke it out for space at the watering hole – ha-ha! Another point to make is that a chicken waterer exposed to sunlight molds quickly, therefore add a drop or two of bleach (yes bleach) to inhibit mold growth. Syrup vs honey Out of the hundreds of beekeepers I’ve known over the years, only a small percentage leave a honey super on for their bees through summer. Why? I would guess because sugar is cheaper than honey is valuable. Having said that, one way or another, you have to feed your bees during this time. Keep in mind: Always maintain at least 30 lbs. stored honey in the hive (at least 3 deep full frames of capped honey) For brood production to continue, nectar is essential As summer progresses not only do nectar sources dry up, but pollen sources can as well. Our bees are preparing for winter even though it’s 100 degrees outside. In that, they are continually building population and wanting to store as much honey as they can. If you have any empty frames in your brood nest, feeding should help fill that space. Tips: Feed 1:1 sugar syrup – watching that you don’t overfeed, and backfilling become an issue Add a box while you feed. This helps build comb in new boxes for next year’s honey flow, and cools the hive. For a health boost - feed your bees products like Apis Biologix, and Complete Bee.
Summer Bee & Beekeeper Management
Italian/Carniolan
This is especially common when the weather begins to warm, and you are using a Boardman entrance feeder. Sugar water has a shelf life of 7-10 days so make sure you only give the bees as much as they can consume in that time period. Using premade syrup from a bee supply company will prevent this from happening, as the mixtures are often made not to ferment or develop mold. If you do find mold in your feeder, Dump out the syrup and clean the jar thoroughly. Next time you make syrup, add a ½ teaspoon of unscented bleach per gallon of sugar water to prevent mold growing inside feeders. The bees love it, and it does not harm them.
There is mold growing in my feeder!
Let’s face it, living around or working mean bees is not fun. If your hive is being overly aggressive, here are some potential causes:
Queenless colony: A colony without a queen may become more aggressive until a new queen is raised. Solution - Wait until they raise a new queen or give them a queen. Weather: Bees are grumpier when it’s windy, chilly, etc. Solution- work them on warm, sunny, calm days. Genetics: Some bee species are naturally more aggressive than others. If they are consistently aggressive year around, genetics is the most likely, and common cause. Solution – Split and requeen. Pests: If a skunk or raccoon is visiting the hive every night to eat bees, or trying to eat honey, this can cause them to be more aggressive. Take measures to prevent this aggravation. Rough handling and not using smoke properly: If you are rough when handling the bees, and aren’t using enough smoke, almost any hive is going to be defensive. Solution – Use more smoke (4-6 puffs), a better smoker fuel (burlap and pellets instead of paper or cardboard), and practice gentle hive handling. Time of year: During a dearth, bees are always more defensive. Solution - Trickle feed syrup during dearth periods and put out dry pollen feeders. Time of day: Bees tend to be more aggressive in the early morning or late in the afternoon since there are older, grumpy forager bees in the hive at these times. Solution - Work bees during the afternoons when possible. If your hive seems especially sensitive to movement, like you walking in front of them, try putting something 3-4 feet in front of their entrance that moves constantly like a flag or pinwheel. The bees will get used to the movement and be less apt to chase you when they see you moving in front of their hive. It's important to note that most hives can be incredibly calm in most cases with proper handling.
Why are My Bees so Mean?
Just an average conversation between husband (Scott Davis - the one mowing) and his wife Nanette Davis (the beekeeper).
Beekeeper Chatter
Trickle feeding is a great way to build comb and keep your bees busy during the hot summer!
For once, the answer to this question is, “It’s up to you!” There is the perception that if you leave a lot of honey for your bees, everything will be OK, and that’s the best thing to do for them. While having their own honey to eat rather than syrup is a little better for them, it actually doesn’t help as much as you would think. Things like handling mites and feeding properly are far more important to the long-term health of your hive. I encourage beekeepers to always leave all the honey the bees have in the bottom brood box for the bees. Then, if you have a second box you can leave all the honey in that box as well – or harvest about half of it along with all the honey out of the supers above it. After you harvest, you just have to feed properly to replenish the stores you took. Often times that summer feeding is great for the bees and encourages them to continue growing and thriving – far better for them than just sitting around with nothing to do. Follow the guidelines below on trickle feeding and your hive will be fine, even if you take all the honey out of the supers. If you don’t want to feed at all, then you will need to leave at least 40 lbs of honey in the second box above the first brood box. Do not extract from the brood nest. Trickle feeding For regions with hot, dry summers, ensuring your hive has plenty of food available is critical. After your summer harvest I recommend “trickle feeding” through the summer months if your hive has less than 30 lbs of honey stored in their second brood box. Simply put, summer trickle feeding entails feeding ¼ - ½ a gallon of 1:1 syrup each week rather than infrequent large amounts of syrup. This simulates a natural nectar flow and will encourage the hive to continue to grow or at least maintain during a time of year when they typically begin to decline in strength. This is especially true in regions that have very hot and dry summers with little nectar or pollen flow. Now, this is not critical. If your bees are not located on your immediate property, or you want to go on a vacation for a month your bees aren’t going to die if you don’t practice trickle feeding. If this isn’t a good option for you, then the goal is to feed your bees more syrup, more quickly, until they have about 30 lbs of honey stored in the second brood box, and 2-4 frames of honey stored in the lower brood box. This will ensure they do not go hungry over the summer. Check back every 2-3 weeks, and feed to help maintain that 30 lb excess in the second box. Remember, a medium box completely full of honey is about 40 lbs, and a deep box completely full is about 60 lbs.
How Much Honey Should I Leave for my Bees?
This hive is ready to harvest!
READY TO HARVEST HIVE CHECKLIST
Capped cells or cured honey – The majority of the honey frames are capped, and those that aren’t pass the shake test (when held flat and shaken over the hive, no honey or nectar rain out of the honey frame) Bees normal forage resources are drying up – Your area will have a specific nectar forage for your bees. When these sources dry up your bees will react by searching for nectar in places out of the ordinary such as: soft drinks, farm animal feed, hummingbird feeders, and other plants they don’t normally visit. Bee behavior changes– Like a hungry child, bees’ attitude can change when they are searching for food and there isn’t any. Not only can they become grumpy, they also aggressively rob neighboring hives for anything they can get. Consuming stored honey– The last thing you want is for the honey supers to be on the meal menu before you’ve had time to extract it. Leaving your honey on the hive past nectar flow can cost you pounds of honey lost if you don’t act quickly. Once the flow has stopped, make the plan to pull the supers and get them extracted right way. See: “Cleaning and Storing Extracted Supers”
How to Remove Bees From Supers
BY: Chari Elam
Check out this "how to" video on our CRAZY FAST fume board!
Most beekeepers will agree that one of the greatest parts of beekeeping is honey extraction! Although it is a LOT of work and messy, to say the least, it’s one time of the year our bees give us a return on our investment. The first step after Preparing for Harvest – Pg. 10, is to remove the bees from the honey supers! Fortunately, beekeepers have several choices! BRUSH METHOD No doubt the cheapest method of all: simply take an extra empty box with lid and a bee brush. As you brush bees off each frame, place that frame in the spare box, return the lid and move on to the next one! Although a bit like herding cats, before you know it, you have pulled all of your frames and it costs you basically nothing! BEE ESCAPES Utilizing a Bee Escape is probably one of the least used methods due to the time it takes to work. But don’t discount the process. If you’ve got the time (24 - 48 hours), it’s a very effective way to vacate the bees from your supers. Simply install and walk away. Basically, the bees can get out – but can’t get back in. CLICK HERE To learn more about this method from Bee Informed Partnership's Dan Wyns. FUME BOARDS This method is “most common” for commercial, sideliner and hobby beekeepers. The reason? The speed of the process! Home-made versions have been used for years, but thanks to bee suppliers like The Bee Supply, a “solar” fume board holds the market. This fume board relies on sun generated heat to activate the odor emitted from products such as Honey Bandit (smells good) or Honey Robber (smells bad). Simply spray (apply) the product to the underside of the lid that is covered in felt, place it on your hive (in the sun) and within 5 -10 minutes your bees will have vacated the supers! Very fast…very easy! BLOW THE BEES Crazy as it sounds…one of the methods to remove bees from supers is by blowing them out with a leaf blower! It’s actually safe and rather quick! If you had to purchase the blower it would put this method in the most expensive category, but being that most of us already have one, it’s definitely an option. This method is done by removing the super, standing it on end and blowing the bees out of the box. As you complete a box, cover it with a lid and move on to the next! SMOKING THE BEES Absolutely NOT a method! Yes, it will vacate the bees from the supers, but what you are left with is a “smoky” taste in your honey… and not the good kind. Regardless of the method you choose, be prepared for a straggler or two to make her way home with you. Not to worry though…these girls are so busy feasting on the honey, they have little interest in stinging you. As always – extracting your honey very soon after removing it will ensure fresh, pest- free honey ready for you and your customers!
By: Chari Elam
Stainless Steel Sieve strainer
Combcapper Fits any standard 5 gallon (18.92 l) bucket Holds shallow, medium & deep frame Hands-free capability! Dishwasher safe Made in the USA
Are you concerned you won’t be able to extract honey because you don’t own an extractor? You shouldn’t be – you have alternatives! For years I’ve been guilty of encouraging new beekeepers to “feel the sweet taste of success” and steal a newly capped frame of honey out of a first-year hive prior to mite treatments or summer dearth. Here’s how: Cookie Sheet – I have done this more times than I can count to get some really fresh honey fast. Remove the top layer of wax from both sides of the frame with an uncapping knife and turn the frame upside down (top bar down) on the cookie sheet. I use the large baker’s cookie sheet from Sam’s. Even as large as it is you have to corner it. I’ll then gently lay a couple of crisscrossed layers of plastic wrap over it creating a tent to prevent lint and contaminants from getting into it while it sits overnight. One deep frame will yield almost a quart of fresh honey! Note: The reason you have to turn the frame upside down is that bees build the honey cells tilted upwards at a 17-degree angle to prevent their contents from spilling out. Smart bees – huh?! Combcapper – This is a super handy tool all beekeepers should have. It allows you to do small amounts and not have to do anything but decap the frame and walk off. It really is that easy! This device sits on top of a 5-gallon bucket and utilizes gravity to drain the frame. Place the frame on top of a cookie sheet and remove the top layer of wax with an uncapping knife from both sides. Place it in the groove of the Combcapper and let gravity do the work! 24 hrs. later you have nice clean honey inside the bucket! Tip: Place this setup in a spare bedroom or closet – somewhere household “people & pet” movement won’t add lint and contaminants to the honey. Crush and strain – Probably the most common method of extracting when you don’t have the use of an extractor. (Also used by Top Bar beekeepers) Unfortunately, its name implies the biggest downfall of the method (crush). Not being able to maintain your honeycomb on the frame for reuse is unfortunate and sets you back for next year – BUT not the end of the world! Simply use a tool of your choice (uncapping knife, hive tool, paint scraper, etc.) to remove all of the comb off the foundation into a bowl/bucket. Once you’ve done this, take handfuls of the comb and squeeze as much honey out of the comb as you can get. This method does require you to strain the honey afterwards because a great deal of wax and debris will be in this honey. This method also leaves a lot of air bubbles in the honey - Allow it to sit for several days before bottling.
I Don't have an Extractor! How do I Extract my Honey?
Cleaning and Storing Extracted Honey Supers
Return the extracted honey supers to the hives the same day you extract to prevent a small hive beetle infestation but do so in the evening to avoid a robbing frenzy. The bees will then clean the frames out over the next few days, and you’ll have nice clean dry comb to remove and store. Use products such as Certan or Para-moth to store the frames. In comparison, Certan would likely be your first choice being it is a 100% biological product, leaves no residue in wax or honey, nor does it alter the taste of honey, plus it is environmentally friendly. Note: Follow the directions for more details. Freezer storage – you can store wet or dry frames in a freezer. If they are wet, you’ll want them to stay there. If they are dry, you can remove them after a few days and store them in air-tight containers. It is still suggested that you use a product such as Certan to ensure no pest infestation for the duration of the storage. Note: If you are not able to get your honey frames back to the hives for the bees to clean them out, simply take them at least 30 yards away from your bee yard and let them get robbed out. Pull them in within a few days and before they get rained on – then follow the storage instructions previously mentioned.
How to Build a Movable Box Storage Tower
QUICK TIP
When you need to add more boxes, you just start wrapping more, until you run out of height in your storage area. When it’s time to put supers back on your hives in the spring, you can just take off as many as you need by cutting back the shrink wrap and then seal up the rest with the telescoping cover!
Courtesy: Harrison Rogers
Pictured is what looks like a telescoping cover. In fact, it does have the same dimensions – just a simple tray made of plywood and 1X2 inch lumber. Four wheels on the bottom make it complete. I used 3-inch swivel casters with PVC wheels I found on Amazon. These roll extremely easily on a concrete floor. Now I can create a movable stack of supers with drawn comb, another stack with just frames and new foundation, etc. You get the picture.
A great part of beekeeping is extraction time. A not-so-great part is cleaning and storing the empty drawn comb frames when you’re done! After extraction you are left with boxes of a wet sticky mess. The problem with that is you can’t store “wet” frames outside of keeping them in a freezer! So how do we clean and store them? Here’s how:
It is no secret that summer time is harder on bees than any other time of the year – Not only from the heat standpoint, more importantly, the lack of good nutrition. Here is a product we believe in and trust to make feeding our bees truly beneficial!
Respecting and mimicking nature in the finest of details – BIO-CONTROL is used to bring the nutritional profile of syrup feedings into alignment with that of floral nectar. Floral nectar has a highly complex chemistry, and provides a full complement of amino acids, phytochemicals, vitamins, and microbial metabolites.
Talk with the Expert Introducing Becky Barajas Store Manager, The Bee Supply - Round Rock
I was finally able to slow her down long enough to chat with me! Meet Becky Barajas, TBS - Round Rock's store manager. Lucky for all of us, Becky has over 10 years beekeeping experience and the credentials to go with it! Not only was she a Tennessee State Apiary Inspector, but also held multiple positions on national boards in the industry. This gal knows her stuff! In this interview I pinned Becky down to talking about small scale extraction. We talk about everything from preventing foam, to why you would never use cheese cloth to strain your honey. Storing honey - Collecting wax cappings - High Moisture content were a few other topics we delved into ... Check it out!
with Chari Elam
You are well on your way to making it through the busiest season in beekeeping! Whether you harvested gallons and gallons of beautiful honey, or maybe just sampled from your first-year hive, you may be asking yourself what comes next in terms of colony management as we enter summer. As beekeepers, we want to consistently maintain strong colonies, especially after honey harvest. Post-harvest care is critical to the strength and viability of our colonies through the upcoming summer dearth as well as preparing them for winter. Post Harvest check list: Verify the queen's brood pattern is still mostly solid and healthy looking. It is normal for the queen to slow down as we enter warmer weather as the worker bees may not be bringing in as much pollen as they did just a few weeks ago. A spotty brood pattern may initiate thoughts of a missed swarm or usurpation. It is best to know your queen's health while getting a replacement is still an option, compared to fall when they are harder to come by. Varroa Mites under control See article on pg. 34 30 pounds of resources (nectar and/or honey) Do your bees have access to water nearby? (extremely important) When it comes to post-harvest feeding, I suggest if you have the option, before you harvest all of your honey, consider keeping one super as an “insurance policy” – storing it back for your bees to use later. As a colony needs a little boost, you have that resource of their own honey to give back to them! Note: For freezer-kept honey frames, make sure you bring that frame(s) up to room temp before giving to the colony. Now let’s talk about the resources we want to see in our colonies post-harvest. Thirty pounds may seem like quite a bit, but the summer can be long and hot with no forage available for an undetermined amount of time. This recommended amount does not have to exist in a separate super. Honey and nectar found on the outside frames as well as along the top of the brood all count towards this thirty-pound amount. So, what can we do if we see less than that amount? Supplemental feeding. There are a few ways we can accomplish this with 1:1 sugar syrup or premade syrup. Top Feeder- Top Feeders easily allow the beekeeper to monitor usage by the colony of the feed without opening the hive. A bonus to these is the ability of them to hold liquid or solid foods/resources (see below). Division Board Feeder- Also known as a Frame Feeders allow direct access to the feed from the colonies but do take up frame space (typically 2 frames). Boardman Feeder- a mason jar that sits on top of a specialized feeder at the entrance to the hive used to hold liquid feed. Boardman feeding is not recommended as it increases the chance of robbing. By using this method, your syrup or sugar water also has the chance to mold or “turn” faster. Community Feeder- A container used to hold syrup or pollen and feeds outside of the hive to “anyone” that wants it. Let’s discuss Community Feeding for just a minute. This can be a bird bath, a bucket, etc. that the beekeeper is using to attempt to feed many colonies with one device. There are pros and cons to this method of feeding to keep in mind. Water is also essential to all facets inside a honey bee colony. From making bee bread, feeding developing larvae, to maintaining humidity and temperature. When you provide water it: Does not need to be super clean. Does not need to be super close to the apiary (within ¼ mile) Must have something the bees can land on, such as sponges, hay, rocks, etc. Providing water can be done with a trough, chicken waterer, bucket, dripping faucet or any other container. Don’t worry about keeping it crystal clean, the bees tend to enjoy “not so perfect” water anyway. Pollen Supplementing pollen can be as important as liquid feed even in the summer. In order for the queen to continue to lay throughout the hottest time of the year, the hive needs pollen. If you see very little pollen or want to give the hive a nutritional boost – pollen subs are a great way to accomplish that. Consider adding about a ½ lb. per hive inspection (every 2 weeks) of 4% Global patties on top of the frames above the brood nest, or – as mentioned above – a hive top feeder can double as a dry feed delivery system as well. Simply remove the screws holding the wire mesh on the center divider and your bees will be able to access the compartments. Caution: This would be for dry food only. Return the wire mesh once you need it for liquid feed again to prevent drowning. Another way to provide pollen for your bees is with dry pollen. This can be area fed without negative issues like when you area feed syrup. You can use a container like a plate, coffee can on its side with ½ the lid cut off to keep out rain, or a homemade hanging PVC pipe feeder. Once you’ve determined your colonies are ready to take on the summer, you made it! Now take this sweet and sticky moment to reflect on all that went well and badly this season to get ready for the next!
FEEDING POST HARVEST By: Becky Barajas Round Rock, Texas Store Manager
This roadway mud puddle is a favorite watering hole for these thousands of bees - Proof clean water isn't required!
Pros
Cons
One Container to refill/monitor
Attracts all interested (from other pollinators to critters)
Reduced threat of robbing for individual colonies
Easy transmission of disease, Varroa
What's Bugging You? Varroa Mites!
It’s that time again – Post-harvest mite check! … and everyone sighs in unison… Treating Varroa mites can be a very controversial topic, but only in regard to how you treat or “don’t’ treat – not in regard to whether or not Varroa needs to be controlled! With that in mind, we can take the fact that despite how we do it – we just need to do it! Basically, you have 2 options: 1) Synthetic chemical or 2) Natural compounds. The chart indicates 4 methods, but with further study you’ll find the Mechanical and Cultural methods are to be used “in conjunction” with the other 2. Having said that, not all beekeepers are willing to use Hard or Soft chemicals in controlling Varroa mites and can find some success in the more passive approaches by using only Mechanical and Cultural means. The bottom line is: does it work? The effectiveness of these products varies very little. Most all Synthetic Chemical and Natural compound Varroa treatments tout an efficacy rate of over 95% with some Natural compounds as high as 99%. The difference is mainly in the overall colony losses per year. There is documented evidence that the overall losses are significantly lower with the more aggressive treatments such as Apivar (upwards of 47% improvement over 31% with natural compounds). There is also evidence that the likelihood of queen and colony degradation is lower with these chemicals as opposed to their Natural compound counterparts. Not to shortchange the Natural compound benefits as they do rank a higher effective rate of 95-99% when controlling Varroa mites and are considered “organic” by legal standards for the industry. Most of these products use a fumigant distribution system, therefore the bees aren’t very fond of them. Bearding and/or absconding has been documented as a real issue while using these products, but not so much as to outweigh the benefits to some. Queen and brood damage are also noted, but again, not beyond the scope of the “benefit outweighing the risk.” It’s very, VERY important you read each and every detail about the product(s) you choose to use. The most important being the Population stage (Increase, Peak, Decrease, Dormant) and current temperatures. If a product allows the use in high populations but has a temperature rating of 80 degrees and it’s over that – you’ll likely run your bees out of the hive and risk them leaving altogether! Please pay close attention to these particulars! It is highly recommended to use the Mechanical and Cultural methods in conjunction with your chosen treatment methods. Doing so will ensure you are doing everything you can for your bees and maintaining a healthy bee yard all while minimizing the amount of chemical (natural or other) you have to use if you choose to do so. Checklist: Population Stage Temperature Re-Queen every year Create natural brood breaks by making splits when able. ALWAYS test before your treat – then, test after treatment to verify it worked. Learn Even More HERE! By: Chari Elam
HoneyBeeHealthCoalition .org
What to do if Your Harvested Honey has High Moisture
HOW TO USE A REFRACTOMETER
Reading of 18.5% Perfect moisture content
Verify the unit is calibrated - if not, follow instructions provided to calibrate it prior to testing. Lift the plastic cover and verify the glass plate is dry, clean and lint free. Place a small drop of honey on the glass (a toothpick works well as a dropper - too much honey on the glass will 'fog' the reading making it hard to read) Close the plastic cover over the honey sample Hold the refractometer up to a light source and read the measurement under the column "water %" This will be the line where the blue meets the white. Clean honey off the glass and plastic cover with a damp soft rag, drying thoroughly for storing. Tip: For a more accurate reading, honey and refractometer should remain in the same room long enough to be the same temperature before testing. Extreme differences in the two will skew the results.
High moisture honey can certainly be a problem, as honey over about 19% can easily ferment. We often see high moisture honey in especially wet springs or humid areas. Honey is hygroscopic so it will absorb moisture from the environment if honey is harvested too early, or water was introduced during extracting. There are some simple tricks to reduce the moisture content of honey on a small scale. First, you will need a refractometer to see what the moisture content of your honey is. If it seems especially runny, it's a good idea to test it. If the moisture is above 19%, heating or cooling, and mixing the honey over a period of days can reduce the moisture. Here are some options if you have high moisture honey: Simply bottle and freeze your honey immediately after harvesting, and thaw jars out as needed. Frozen honey cannot ferment. Place your honey in a 5-gallon bucket. Place the bucket in a small room, or space like an old refrigerator or large ice chest inside your house where the humidity is low. Place a small fan in the enclosure, and leave the door/lid cracked slightly. Warm the space to 85-95 degrees with a light bulb. Leave the lid off the bucket and stir 2-3 times per day. After about a week, it should reduce the moisture by 1-2%. Similarly, you can chill the honey to about 65 degrees in a small enclosure and follow the same steps above. Purchase a small dehumidifier and place it in an enclosed area with your honey, mixing 2-3 times per day for a week. This will also help pull the moisture out of the honey.
Summer Splits Increasing your hives in time to grow for overwintering
Blake Shook: "...spray "Complete" on each split once the queen is accepted, 4 times - 4 days apart. It really helps them to grow during the summer!"
CHECK OUT THIS STEP BY STEP VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE SUMMER SPLITS
QUEENS
Making summer or fall splits is very similar to spring splits, with a few important differences. Regardless of where you are in the USA, it is ideal to split as early as possible in the summer. Many in the south wait until after they harvest honey (usually by July 4th), while northern beekeepers often split in July or August, during the honey flow. As a result, they sacrifice their honey crop, but hives tend to grow more quickly due to the abundant natural nectar and pollen flow. The main goal is to split as early as possible in the summer thus ensuring more time for the split to grow before winter. To that end, we recommend splitting with a minimum of 4 frames of brood covered with bees when doing summer splits. We also recommend using mated queens rather than queen cells for splits, and not letting the hive raise their own queen. You are in a race against the upcoming winter, and you need the hive to grow as quickly as possible. Waiting for a queen to emerge, mate and begin laying is using up valuable time. The most common reason for failure in making splits is letting the hive raise their own queen and not giving a split enough brood to grow quickly. But, if all goes well, you should be able to add a second brood box to the split within 4 weeks. That second box should be filled within 4-6 weeks. Continuous feeding is essential in the south. In the north, it will vary based on the area. If bees are not bringing in large amounts of nectar and drawing out new combs, then feeding is needed.
By: Lynne Jones
The Beekeeping Glossary on the TBS website, defines dearth as “severe to total lack of availability, usually in reference to nectar and/or pollen.” As nectar flow starts tapering down and dearth begins most colonies are at their peak population. Scarcity of floral nectar + high number of foragers = prime conditions for robbing. Robber bees are simply foragers – very determined and ruthless foragers. When there’s no floral nectar to forage, they can be easily drawn to the smell of honey and nectar from a bee hive. Each colony has guard bees at the entrance and they will fight off non-resident bees trying to come in. But if the hive entrance is not reduced, or the colony is not very strong, the robber bees can overwhelm them unless the beekeeper intervenes. Once robbing starts, it will not stop until there is nothing left in the hive to rob. Once robbing has started it is imperative to stop it and to prevent it from spreading to nearby hives. There are numerous ways to stop a robbing event, but there are four most commonly suggested by beekeepers. A robbing event involves hundreds, if not thousands of robber bees. When you put a stop to their robbing, they don’t just give up and go home. Many of the robber bees will then be attracted to a nearby source of honey or nectar – usually your next closest hive! It is important to protect all hives in the vicinity. All robbing screens, regardless of their design, work using two basic elements: 1. robber bees are attracted to the hive’s blocked entrance, and 2. the robbing screen’s entrance is away from the blocked entrance. Robber bees are frenzied. They want to get into the hive, get the honey, and get out as quickly as possible. In their frenzied state, they will continue to bang their heads against the screen for hours, never trying to find another way into the hive, while the resident bees are calmly coming and going via the screen’s top entrance. And what is actually quite astounding – even if the robber bees have an identical robbing screen on their own hive, and know how to get in their robbing screen, they won’t figure out how to get into another hive’s robbing screen! Robbing screens are very effective in stopping robbing, but why not prevent it from happening to start with? The best time to install a robbing screen is in the evening because the bees will re-orient the next morning and will have all day to get accustomed to their new entrance. However, install it immediately if your bees are being robbed. I promise, your bees will eventually figure out where their new entrance is. In addition to preventing robbing, another benefit you might not associate with a robbing screen is less defensive bees. On this topic, E.T. Ash, a respected beekeeper with more than 60 years experience, says: “As I have suggested to others with bees that suddenly become hostile you might want to look into robber guards (often called Florida moving screens in some bee catalogs). Beyond limiting robbing they also are good at decreasing the defensive behavior of a hive... basically I think they create the situation where the guard bees at the front entry are much less nervous.” You can purchase robbing screens or make them yourself. Typically, the ones purchased from a beekeeping supply store are combination Robbing-Moving Screens and are very handy to have on hand. If you need to move the hive or just temporarily shut the bees in to mow or weed-eat, install the screen at night or early in the morning (or just close the gates if it is already installed). The actual hive entrance is not blocked and the screen still allows the bees to ventilate the hive. If you want to make your own robbing screens, do an internet search and you will find plenty of examples. The ideal screen is # 8 Hardware Cloth (also called 1/8” & 27 gauge) and you can buy it at Tractor Supply Co., Amazon, and some local hardware stores. I guess you can tell I am a Robbing Screens fan. If you already have robbing screens on hand, this is your reminder that it is time to put them on your hives. If you don’t have robbing screens, I hope you will make it a priority to obtain and install them.
"... it can remain on the hive all year if you choose.
Signs of Robbing Increased activity at the entrance Bees fighting at the entrance Bees flying in a zig-zag pattern focused only at the entrance Bits of wax on the landing board Bees trying to get into the hive at cracks/seams (crack attack) Some of the bees may be shiny and black – they have lost their hair during the fighting Robbing attracts wasps, so you may see a few of them as well
What's the Buzz... about Robbing and Robbing Screens
You can contact me on Facebook or send an email to BrazosRiverHoney77474@gmail.com
How to Stop Robbing Close off the entrance. This will prevent the resident bees from getting in as well, so at dusk when the robbing subsides open it back up – Not a good option on very hot days. Cover the hive with a wet sheet or towel hanging down below the entrance. This will confuse the robbers, but the resident bees will eventually figure out how to get in and out. Turn on a water sprinkler – Make it rain! This will send the robbers home Install a robbing screen!
Here's a picture of one of my quick - fix robbing screens. This works great in a pinch!
Video Courtesy: Stan Gore - Robbing Crack Attack!
This combination Robbing and Moving Screen is available from The Bee Supply. It can remain on the hive all year if you choose. During nectar flow, when there is high traffic at the entrance, the two bottom gates can be opened in addition to the top gate. During dearth, one or both of the bottom gates can be closed. Notice the metal plate on the left side. It reduces the scent of honey directly in front of the plate causing the robber bees to be attracted to the center and right side of the screen, further from the screen’s top entrance.
Beyond Bees by: Paul Fagala Monarch Butterflies
Photo Credit: Simone Parr
You might not realize it since Monarch butterflies and honey bees are quite different, but Monarchs share some similar characteristics with honey bees. Most people are aware that Monarch butterflies and bees are pollinators, but they also often share common forage and are both in decline. Every spring in March, my attention turns to bees naturally, but also to butterflies, particularly the migrating Monarch butterflies. Monarchs have orange and black wings lined with small white dots. Besides their beauty, what fascinates me most about monarchs is their yearly migration, of which honey bees know nothing about. Eastern migratory Monarchs overwinter on one of 9 or 10 sites in Mexico. In the spring, they leave their wintering home and begin migrating northward. During the spring and summer months, adult monarchs live from 2-6 weeks except for the last generation of the year, which like honey bees, can live 8-9 months. Female monarchs begin laying eggs on milkweed right after their first mating. Their offspring hatch and go through metamorphosis to become an adult, in a manner similar to bees, and continue the migration northward while their parents die along the way. This process will continue through the spring and summer with new generations covering the eastern United States, reaching as far north as Canada. The Monarchs hatching out in late summer and early fall are several generations removed from their ancestors that made the journey the previous fall. Opposite their ancestors, they begin flying southward toward Mexico, as much as 2,800 miles. Millions of monarchs arrive on their wintering grounds in the Mexican states of Michoacan and Mexico in November. This is critical habitat for the monarchs. The oyamel fir forest provides the monarchs with cooler temperatures to maintain reproductive diapause and protection from extreme cold events and predators. However, the villagers of Michoacan also use these trees for fuel, housing materials and their income from logging. Unfortunately, even a moderate thinning of these trees can cause significant butterfly mortality. Because of habitat loss and other environmental factors , the population of monarchs has declined drastically. This 85%-90% decline in population has resulted in the migratory monarch being placed on the IUCN (International Union of Conservation of Nature) Red List of Threatened Species. While honey bees are not yet on this list, we beekeepers can help with both species' decline. There are a number of things you can do in your yard to help the Monarchs as well as other pollinators. Plant native milkweed giving them a host plant on which to lay their eggs providing food for the caterpillars. Reduce or eliminate the use of pesticides and herbicides in your yard. Monarchs, like bees, are insects and are just as vulnerable to overuse of pesticides and herbicides. Plant native flowers which provide abundant nectar in the fall. The monarchs will love it, and your bees will thank you as they store nectar and pollen for the winter. Support organizations dedicated to preserving overwintering sites for the migratory Monarchs. Monarchs and honey bees are fascinating and beneficial insects! It is important for us to do everything we can to save them from extinction and make sure the future generations are able to enjoy them as much as we do.
By: Paul Fagala, with Tammy Shook Dayton, TX Store Manager
YIELD:Makes 2 servings INGREDIENTS For Croutons: 1 slice - rustic bread (baguette or ciabatta), cut into 1/2" cubes 1/4 tsp. - dried oregano 1/8 tsp. - garlic powder 1/8 tsp. - onion powder 1/4 cup - grated Parmesan cheese pinch of kosher salt pinch of ground black pepper 2 T - honey 2 T - olive oil DIRECTIONS Preheat the oven to 400°F. In a bowl, add the croutons, dried oregano garlic and onion powder, Parmesan cheese, salt and black pepper. Add olive oil and honey to the bowl and toss until well coated. Place on an oven-safe sheet pan and bake in the oven until the desired color is achieved (5 to 10 minutes). Remove it from the oven and allow it to cool. Wash the radicchio leaves and allow them to drain on a paper towel-lined plate. In a bowl, add the radicchio, green beans, and toss with salt and pepper. For the vinaigrette, gather a blender, and add the lemon juice, apple cider vinegar, honey, mustard, and olive oil. Blend well. Add the salt and pepper and fold in the poppy seeds. To serve, place the radicchio, prosciutto, and green beans in a bowl, and add 4 T of the vinaigrette. Mix well to combine. Place the salad greens on a plate and top with the honey croutons. Recipe developed by Chef Wook Kang for the National Honey Board.
For Vinaigrette: 1/4 cup - lemon juice 1/8 cup - apple cider vinegar 4 T - honey 1/2 tsp. - Dijon mustard 1/2 cup - olive oil pinch of kosher salt pinch of ground black pepper 1/8 tsp. - poppy seeds
For Salad: 1/2 cup - radicchio leaves, cut in quarters 1/4 cup - green beans, cooked and split in half pinch of kosher salt pinch of ground black pepper 2 - Prosciutto slices, cut into 1/8" strips
RADICCHIO AND PROSCIUTTO SALAD WITH HONEY POPPY SEED VINAIGRETTE AND HONEY-TOASTED CROUTONS
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