February 2022
www.TexasBeeSupply.com
TEXAS BEE SUPPLY
Monthly
Cover Photo: Hillary Nickerson
Feature Topics Preparing For Spring Symptoms of a Starving Hive AG Leasing Sugar syrup by weight or volume? Interview Series: Matt Fuller PhD Fuller Farms
Edition 20
Table Of Contents
Did you miss last month's issue? Click the cover below and step inside. We welcome your feedback and submissions! Beekeeping Questions: help@texasbeesupply.com Article suggestions, questions or content submissions? editor@texasbeesupply.com
6 Monthly Tips 8 Spring in February? 14 Symptoms of a Nutritionally Starved Hive 16 Why is Treating for Varroa So Important? 18 Replacing Old Frames 20 Chalkbrood Disease Primer 26 Interview Series: Matt Fuller PhD 30 Gimme a Break - A tax break that is! 34 Topics Beekeepers Can't Agree On 36 Sugar Syrup Recipe 42 How Often Should a Hive be Requeened? 44 Monthly Q & A 48 Recipe - Bee Nutty Choco-Chip Cookies 52 Monthly Webinar Q & A 54 Drought Chart
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1. As your hive begins to grow, their need for food will grow as well. It takes up to 2 frames of honey to raise 1 frame of brood. Be sure to check your hive at least every other week to ensure they have enough food stores to grow properly. Even if flowers are blooming, that doesn't mean those flowers are producing enough nectar to sustain your hive. We recommend maintaining at least a 20 lb surplus of stored honey or syrup in your hive during February, for a hive that has at least 1 deep box full of bees or more. Feed a 1:1 (1 part sugar to 1 part water) syrup if your hive has less than a 20 lb surplus of stored honey/syrup. 1:1 helps stimulate brood rearing, while 2:1 is better for bees to store for the winter. 2. With an increasing number of flowers beginning to bloom, feeding a pollen substitute is generally not necessary. However, during the months of February & March, we can have unexpected cold weeks. During these weeks the bees are unable to forage. If the weather is 50-55 degrees or below, bees typically forage very little. If there are more than 6-7 consecutive days below these temperatures, a strong growing hive can run out of stored pollen. If a hive runs out of pollen they will begin cannibalizing brood, which can cause your hive to quickly lose strength. To prevent this, give each hive a pollen patty if these conditions occur. 3. Consider reversing boxes. If your hive has overwintered in 2 boxes, you will often find the majority of your bees are now in the top box as they migrated upward over the winter, consuming honey. If this has happened to your hive, reverse the boxes, placing the box full of bees on the bottom, and the empty box on top. 4. If your hive has all of the boxes currently 80% or more full of bees, add an additional box. Very strong hives can and will swarm in late February, or early March. Prevent swarming by adding an additional box and planning to make a split later in the spring. 5. Consider treating for mites. As a general rule, test for mites before treating. Every hive has mites, but not all hives have high enough levels to necessitate treating. A visual inspection IS NOT a reliable method for determining mite levels. In general, if you visually see mites, the infestation is already at lethal levels for your hive. If your hive has more than 2 mites per 100 bees, treat.
By: Blake Shook
Photo Credit: Randall L Brown
February tips
By: Chari Elam
Testing for Varroa
You bet it is – at the very least, the bees are preparing for it! In some areas of Texas, winter hasn’t even settled in yet… especially the farther south you go. Couple that with near drought conditions in the west/northwest and you’re no doubt a little nervous as spring peeks around the corner. No matter how many years I’ve been in this industry, I’m never short of amazed when I see the bees literally overcoming most any obstacle to “spring forward”! Too cold? Too warm? Too wet? Too dry? It just doesn’t matter; they manage year after year! Thankfully, right?! What’s going on in your hive? February and March are when bees are most susceptible to starvation. The amount of “nature provided” resources aren’t coming in as quickly as the population growth requirements demand. Do a “box tilt” (back to front) and see if you have any weight. If the box is light you need to feed. Just south of us (southeast Texas), Elm trees are beginning to bud out. A wise older beekeeper once told us that for every 100 miles it’s a 2 week seasonal difference. It sounds far-fetched, but remarkably fairly accurate! With this theory, we should expect to see our Elm trees budding in a week or so. See if you can prove or disprove it and let me know. February is what I’ll call a “revealing” month for beekeepers as we venture out to our bee yards - we get to see exactly how good our girls are faring. Unfortunately, some of us may find a “dead out” or two – It just happens… What now? As soon as you discover the dead colony, take the box apart and salvage the resources. If you wait it may not be salvageable. Honey frames, if still intact, can be saved - either freeze to be re-installed another day or put it on a hive that could use the food right now. Take special care of salvageable drawn comb frames – these are worth their weight in gold! They are superb for speeding up growth of new colonies and Nucs come spring! Full on “Hive Dive” and Varroa test time It’s time to do a FULL Hive Inspection on a warm day (by mid-February.) Verify there is space for the queen to lay and stored food (nectar/honey/pollen). And...test for Varroa mites! I’ve often said, testing for mites is one of the most uncomfortable things you do as a new beekeeper. It was for me anyway! Once you get a couple of them behind you, you’ll never worry again. Whether you are a Treatment-Free Beekeeper, Organic Beekeeper or a “Do whatever it takes Beekeeper,” we have a responsibility to our bees to TEST for Varroa, and if the mite load is high, address it with a solution. No excuses! The Queen is ramping up her laying RIGHT NOW and the resources in the hive need to be ready! Pollen and Nectar – If your bees are bringing in fresh pollen you’ll not need to supplement - If they aren’t, consider doing so. This is the time of year we change from 2/1 sugar syrup to 1/1 syrup (recipe here). The lighter syrup will not only stimulate the Queen, but also give the nurse bees the resources they need to make “Bee Bread,” of which they need more than ever now that the Queen’s laying is increasing every day! Room for the Queen to lay (drawn comb with space to lay) – If the drawn comb around the brood nest is full of honey or pollen, she doesn’t have room to lay. If needed, remove an outer frame, and make room for a new foundation frame or a drawn comb frame (from your back stock - This is that “Gold” I referred to earlier!) Place that new frame in the brood nest – not the center, but just left/right of center. Adding Brood boxes Depending on your area and where you are in the progress of spring buildup – If you overwintered in a single deep and it’s 70-80% full of bees, add an additional box. You wouldn’t think it could happen, but swarm preparation starts in February. If you don’t address “space” for your Queen to lay, the bees will do it for you… Bee-ing proactive will not only prevent a Swarm but give you the opportunity to grow your apiary! Reverse Brood Box (if necessary) If you went into winter with a double deep, odds are your colony migrated to the top box as the temperatures dropped and the food source was being consumed. Heat rises so they follow the warmth as they eat through their food stores and migrate to the top box for more. It’s very easy to tell if this is the case. Simply open the top box and look! If most all of your bees are in the top box and very few in the bottom, just reverse the top box with the bottom. This is no different than adding a deep box… this one just happens to be the one they had sitting under them! We’ve made it to the season that requires us to keep a steady hive check and inspections schedule. Overlooking key indicators such as: space and food requirements could make or break a colony. Keeping good records and reacting to the bees’ needs will pay off!
photo by Kate St. John
Spring? In February?
Photo Credit: Jacob Osborne - Kentuck Honey Farms
Blake Shook Blue Ridge, TX
1st Thursday of Each Month Next meeting February 3rd - 6:30 pm!
One of the largest virtual meetings offered! Can't attend live? Register and get the recording sent to your inbox!
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James & Chari Elam Dayton-Huffman, TX
Live in the Bee Yard is Back! - February Tips - Early Spring Blooms - Early Spring Feeding - Overcrowding & February Splits - Varroa in February - And More!
2022 BEGINNING BEEKEEPING CLASSES
Topic Highlights Hive Equipment & Protective Gear Basic Functions of the Hive Overview of Workers, Queens and Drones What's What In a Hive Identification & Treating Bee Diseases & Pest Yearly Hive Management Nutrition Honey Production & Harvesting
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Workers consuming developing larvae Nature.com
Symptoms of a Nutritionally Starved Hive
A starving hive can take on many symptoms and can occur at many points throughout the year. Thus, it is important to be able to identify the symptoms. The most common conditions which can lead to this are: Early spring before a major honey flow begins and the bees are building up faster than flowers are blooming. You should watch especially carefully if there is a late spring cold snap, and the bees can’t forage for a week or more while they have a rapidly growing population. If this occurs, a gallon or two of syrup and a pollen patty are typically sufficient to carry them through a week of non-flight. Post-harvest. This is the most common time to see bees suffer nutritionally. Once you harvest honey, typically in early summer, many regions experience hot and dry conditions and a dramatic reduction in nectar and pollen available. For regions that have very warm winters (daytimes in the 60s-70s) your hive may never stop rearing brood and could need some supplemental pollen and syrup all winter long. For most of the country, little to no pollen is needed during the dead of winter since no brood rearing is occurring. In these instances, a starving hive is one which has run out of stored honey or syrup. Now that we have identified when to watch for nutritionally starved hives, let’s discuss what it looks like in a hive: Less than half a frame (combined) of pollen stores in a hive Less than 10lbs (combined) of honey or syrup in a hive (1 deep frame full of honey is 5-6lbs and a medium frame is 3-4lbs for reference) Bees cannibalizing brood. You may see the bees uncapping and consuming pupa, or more likely, you will see almost no eggs or larva in the hive, despite a laying queen. Before cannibalization begins, larva will look “dry” in a hive. The small larva in a hive should be floating in royal jelly. If they are not, this is an indication that the hive doesn’t have enough stores. The fastest way to fix a starving hive is to simply give them food! Keep in mind that if they have plenty of stored honey, but little to no stored pollen, they need a pollen patty. If they have little to no stored syrup/honey, they need syrup. When in doubt, a little food can go a long way to help protect a hive!
Photo(s) Credit: Randy Oliver ScienctificBeekeeping.com
Why is Treating For Varroa Mites So Important?
Testing for Varroa with an Easy Check Varroa mite tester kit
Testing for Varroa with a Sticky Board
Testing & treating Varroa mites is one of the most important things to do in all of beekeeping. If you don’t pick the right size of super, or forget to install an entrance reducer, it isn’t going to impact your hive much. However, neglecting to control your Varroa mite population, and your hive will (the vast majority of the time) die. There are few things as serious in the world of beekeeping. It is the leading cause of hive deaths for small scale beekeepers, and arguable, all scales of beekeepers. Varroa mites not only suck the fat from bees, but they also transmit deadly viruses, leave huge open wounds on adult bees, deform developing bees, and greatly weaken bee’s immune systems. You can’t accurately gauge Varroa levels without testing since they are very difficult to see on adult bees. This makes testing critical. Many hives dwindle and die from Varroa mites and are eventually overtaken by wax moths or small hive beetles. Thus, the moths and beetles are often blamed for killing hives. However, Varroa are often the real culprit. Remember, essentially every hive has Varroa mites...it’s just a question of at what level.
REPLACING OLD FRAMES
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When I started inspecting colonies for honey bee diseases in Pennsylvania in 2008, the first and most prevalent disease I found was chalkbrood. I observed this disease a few weeks into the spring season while inspecting a few colonies. I had seen the disease on several other occasions, so it was very easy to identify by the hard “chalk-like” mummies inside the cells. Ascosphaera apis is the fungus responsible for this bee disease. The exact origin of chalkbrood is unknown, but it most likely arrived from Europe with the alfalfa leafcutter bee (Megachile rotundata), when the bee species was introduced to assist with pollination demands in the United States. You may ask, “How do honey bees become infected with chalkbrood?” Worker larvae are infected when fed spore-contaminated pollen and honey. The spores quickly germinate, and the vegetative state of the fungi will out-compete the larvae for food, usually infecting the larvae from the bottom up. Before becoming mummies, infected larvae are often uncapped and may look similar to Sacbrood virus (SBV) infected larvae. However, the heads of chalkbrood infected larvae are often slightly sunken, making the top rounded, as opposed to pointed like SBV infected larvae. You can pull out a few suspect larvae to see if the bottom is starting to be consumed by the fungus. The color of chalkbrood ranges from white to grey then starts to turn black when the fungus is producing spores or fruiting bodies and ready to reproduce. This is the most infectious stage of chalkbrood. The black looking mummies are often what you see on the bottom board, outside on the entrance or in front of the hive. At this point these mummies can spread spores to other colonies in the area.
Chalkbrood mummy that has started to sporulate. When the mummy turns black the fruiting bodies are ready to be transferred to pollen and honey by worker movement in the hive.
Chalkbrood mummy at its most infectious stage and can spread spores.
Chalkbrood start, sunken head, visual signs looking similar to SBV.
Chalkbrood Disease Primer By: Rob Snyder Bee Informed Partnership: Honey Bee Field Specialist
A hygienic colony that removed a majority of the brood or uncapped it. Notice the brood appearance, this is only 24 hours after killing the brood. These chewed down larvae look very similar to diseases, which can cause confusion.
I have included 2 images that show a hygienic colony vs. a non-hygienic colony
Mild to Severe case of chalkbrood where a majority of the brood is being taking over byAscophera apis.
Chalkbrood mummies on the ground in front of a hive in an apiary.
Severe case of chalkbrood with mummies on bottom board.
Original publication November 9th, 2020 Rob Snyder Published with expressed written consent For more information on Bee Informed Partnership go to BeeInformed.org
Apiguard treatment (right) in a colony along with a AP23 protein patty (left) to supplement a colony during summer dearth in Northern California.
We typically observe chalkbrood during the spring but symptoms can be seen throughout the year. There are very few remedies to control chalkbrood. Thymol treatments, such as Apiguard claim to be effective against chalkbrood. Although we have no strong data to back up this claim, the treatment may have a "cleaning effect’" on bees. Often times the bees go into overdrive to clean out the thymol crystals from the treatment, and in turn clean the rest of the hive, including dead brood and mummies. The bee’s cleaning behavior increases when the treatment is applied at higher temperatures. I have even seen the queen shut down during this treatment. A lack of ventilation in the hive, accumulated water or adding old moldy equipment, all increase moisture levels in the hives and may encourage fungal growth. Also, the lack of population may be a contributing factor for a chalkbrood outbreak in the colonies. Disrupting the brood-to-bees ratio can cause chalkbrood. Proper hive ventilation may help to prevent chalkbrood. I have also heard of beekeepers using BeeOptimum, a syrup additive, they claim helps prevent the disease. And lastly, requeening and removing highly infected frames is another way beekeepers can combat the fungus. Another way to prevent the fungus is to buy hygienic stock, as hygienic bees will remove the mummies before the infection rate increases.
A colony with poor hygienic traits, notice that barely any brood is uncapped and removed.
Recently, Janet Fletcher Castle of New Jersey proposed the following question:
Anybody else listen to their hives during winter???
Meet Matt Fuller - Matt has been beekeeping for over 10 years and in that time, developed good skills for spring preparations. Join me as I discuss his methods for being ready.
with Chari Elam
Interview Series February Edition MATT FULLER, PhD
Registration
Twelfth Annual Beekeeping School March 26th 8:00 am - 5:00 pm Brenham High School - Brenham, TX Beekeeping School participants have the opportunity to "suit up", fire up the smoker and experience what it is like to open a hive and look inside. If you desire to learn more about the art of Beekeeping, this school is for YOU!
New Beekeeper To-Do and Shop Ahead List Order/Assemble and Paint equipment – Paint recommended: water base Primer and Outdoor quality paint. Paint or stain only the outside surfaces (not interior surfaces). Equipment needed when you purchase a Nuc: 2 Deep hive boxes (assembled or unassembled) – 1 to install your Nuc into when it arrives and 1 to add when it outgrows the first one. 20 Frames (10 for each box) - also available as kit with box Bottom Board (screen or solid) Telescopic Lid and Inner cover Entrance Reducer Equipment needed when you purchase a Full Colony: 1 Deep hive box (assembled or unassembled) for expansion soon after getting your new hive home. 10 Frames to fill this box - also available as kit with box Equipment needed for possible honey production – for those purchasing a Full Colony: Medium hive box (2 per established hive) 10 Frames per box - also available as kit with box Queen Excluder (metal or plastic) New Beekeeper Basic Supplies: Protective suit, jacket, or hat/veil Gloves Smoker HIve Tool
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1-D-1 Open Space law offers incentives for landowners and opportunity for beekeepers
en Franklin famously said that nothing is more certain in life than “death and taxes,” but a 2012 Texas law gives landowners a potential reprieve (from the tax part at least!). The 1-D-1 Open Space constitutional change paved the way for folks with smaller parcels of rural land — between five and 20 acres — to qualify for agricultural tax valuation by doing farm, ranch, or wildlife management work. And qualifying for Ag valuation typically spells a much lower tax rate. Take that, Ben Franklin! Beekeeping falls under livestock management, and the law has been a boon to bees and beekeepers alike. While there was some discussion in the most recent Texas legislative session about standardizing Ag valuation rules statewide, as of now guidelines are unique to each of the 254 counties in Texas — unique, because what works in the piney woods of the east won’t necessarily work in the vast, open expanses of West Texas and vice versa, according to Scott Untied (pronounced ‘un-teed’). Untied and his wife Sue Ann own and manage Texas Rural Property Tax Consultants based in Kingsland and help landowners across the state with the sometimes-complicated details of Ag and wildlife management. “As big and diverse as Texas is, it would be really hard to standardize every county,” Untied said. “But most of the counties have adopted what I’ll call the Harris County standard.” Because Harris County was the first to apply standards to beekeeping for Ag valuation, many have followed suit calling for a minimum of six hives for the first five acres and an additional hive for every 2.5 acres up to 20 acres (totaling 12 hives for 20 acres). Some counties require fewer hives because of drier conditions, while a few counties (DeWitt, San Saba, Austin, and Miller) even allow landowners to qualify for Ag by raising native pollinators, such masonry bees. Qualifying for Ag with bees typically starts with a phone call or a trip to the local tax appraisal office to find out what the rules are in your area. Land that already has a steady record of Ag designation typically qualifies for Ag status right away. Landowners who can’t prove current Ag designation must build up a five-year history of activity. Untied says, some counties are stricter about compliance, scheduling regular site inspections and requiring detailed reports. And while some landowners take up beekeeping on their own, the 2012 law has also spawned a cottage industry of hive leasing among Texas beekeepers large and small. “The key to success with bees in Ag is to first of all become a good beekeeper, Untied said, otherwise you’re constantly losing hives and having to play catch-up. Next is keeping good records of your beekeeping activity. That means reports of regular hive inspections, including feeding, treatments, splitting of hives, and receipts for all expenses.” Registering hives with the Texas Apiary Inspection Services, though not always required, is another layer of proof for your beekeeping operation. All these records are vital for landowners to prove their Ag purpose at year 5 when they apply to their county. And once land is designated as Ag land it can be converted to wildlife management, Untied said. The Texas Apiary Inspection Service website (txbeeinspection.tamu.edu) has helpful info about Ag valuation, and the Texas Beekeeper’s Association (https://texasbeekeepers.org/) has detailed info as well as a very helpful PDF download with a breakdown of 1-D-1 and beekeeping.
B
Gimme a Break - A Tax Break, that is!
Charlie Agar is a beekeeper in New Braunfels who leases bees for Ag on properties in and around New Braunfels. Find him at CharlieBee.com.
By: Charlie Agar
Do you know the difference?
Agricultural Exemption Applies to Purchases made for your Beekeeping venture Beekeepers can claim “exemptions” from some Texas taxes (sales tax) when purchasing certain items used exclusively to produce agricultural products (as it relates to beekeeping) used for sale. Example: Beekeeping Equipment (protective clothing does not apply) Note: Merchant has the right to determine whether or not to grant you the tax exemption at time of purchase. You also must carry the Ag Exemption card with you and fill out a form with each merchant to keep on file. To apply : Application Form AP-228-2 completed and turned in to the Texas State Comptroller either online or by mail.
Agricultural Valuation Applies to land taxes only Beekeeping is an agricultural use and shall qualify for agricultural use productivity valuation if used for pollination or for the production of human food or other tangible products having a commercial value. (Sec. 23.51 (2) Tax Code)Requires 5-20 acres Note: Each county will have their own interpretation of this Tax Code. You will want to call or meet with your local appraisal district to follow their specific instructions on application and qualifications. To apply: File Application Property Tax Form 50-129 to your local county appraisal district. If accepted, land that falls under the criteria will be appraised at a lower value per acre saving you money on your year end land taxes. Time sensitive filing deadlines apply
Topics Beekeepers Can't Agree On! By: Lynne Jones
By Volume!
By Weight!
On January 1st, I asked beekeepers in two Facebook groups: “Sugar Syrup – Do you mix by weight or volume? Explain your method of mixing sugar syrup.” Twenty-two commented on how they make sugar syrup. By far, beekeepers measure volume, rather than weigh on a scale. In cooking, especially baking, weighing ingredients is considered far more accurate than measuring. Beekeepers who weigh their sugar and water will have the most accurate sugar to water ratio. Measuring equal parts by volume makes a sugar syrup that is only .85:1 (sugar:water). However, Sporkin Theeye (aka Mark Steph) made a very good point commenting, “As to weight vs volume…. They are close to (but not exactly) the same. Nectar in nature isn't an exact amount for every flower. Use whichever is easiest for you and you will be fine.” Flowers of different species produce nectar that can be low in sugar, high in sugar, or somewhere in the middle.The amount of sugar can also vary for individual flowers due to many factors, such as: time of day; the amount of sun, wind, or rain; and the type of soil (Burlew, 2021). A batch of sugar syrup, no matter how it is made, might inadvertently match the sugar ratio of a type of flower, but it certainly doesn’t exactly match the ratio of all flowers. Whether you weigh, measure, or guesstimate, it doesn’t matter to the bees, so you should use whichever method works best for you. I am a long-time fan of guesstimate – it’s easy and doesn’t make any extra dirty dishes. However, Chris Barnes’ comment made me aware of an even easier way to make sugar syrup, “I dump sugar, then add water (not heated, but from the ‘hot side’ of the tap). If it all dissolves, I add more sugar.” Obviously, this method is extra easy, but the sugar-water ratio is going to be much higher than the 1:1 we feed in the Spring to simulate a nectar flow which ramps up brood production and comb building. But it was Chris’s P.S. that really caught my attention: PS: take a look at the research Randy Oliver did about wax building comparing 2:1 vs 1:1. The results were: it did not matter. Bees built the same amount of comb per pound of sugar made regardless of the concentration of syrup made. His conclusion was "since thick syrup means fewer trips to the yard to fill the feeder, this was slightly more advantageous - only because less gas and time were burned". Whoa! An easier way to mix sugar syrup and fewer trips to fill feeders? I’m going to give this a try starting immediately. But you don’t have to take Chris’s word for it. I’ve included the link to Randy Oliver’s light vs heavy syrup experiment below. I encourage you to read the methods of all the beekeepers who commented to my Facebook question; they’ve given some practical ways to make sugar syrup and you might want to give one or two of them a try yourself. I also recommend reading Rusty Burlew’s article; I think you will find it both informative and enjoyable. Burlew, R. (2021, January). The perils of sugar syrup: it’s not that complicated. American Bee Journal, Volume 161 No 1, January 2021, pp. 59-62. Retrieved January 15, 2022 from Honey Bee Suite website - CLICK HERE Oliver, R. (2016, September).Light Or Heavy Syrup For Drawing Foundation? American Bee Journal, Volume 156 No 9, September 2016, pp 993-995. Retrieved January 15, 2022 from Scientific Beekeeping website - CLICK HERE Texas Friendly Beekeepers - Click Here Central Texas Beekeepers - Click Here
Follow Lynne Jones as she places herself in the line of fire in polling Beekeepers on the most arguable topics in beekeeping! Owner of Brazos River Honey Secretary-Treasurer of the Fort Bend Beekeepers Association and Advanced level in the Texas Master Beekeeper program
Sugar Syrup Recipe
1/1 (Most like Nectar for feeding larvae and drawing out honeycomb) Spring/Summer - 1 Part Sugar with 1 Part Water 4 pound bag of sugar formula: 8 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 3 ½ quart jars or 1 gallon 10 pound bag of sugar formula: 20 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 8 ¾ quart jars or 2 ½ gallons 2/1 (Most like Honey for consumption) Fall/Winter - 2 Parts Sugar with 1 Part Water 4 pound bag of sugar formula: 4 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 2 quart jars or ½ gallon 10 pound bag of sugar formula: 10 cups of water per bag of sugar Makes approximately 4 ½ quarts or 1 ½ gallons Directions: 1/1 syrup mixture - only requires “hot as can be” tap water. Add sugar and water together and stir or shake until dissolved. 2/1 syrup mixture - Heat water on med/high heat in a large stock pot “just till marbling (slow swirl)” NOT BUBBLING –boiling will cause syrup to candy Add sugar stirring constantly Turn off heat when sugar has all been added Stir occasionally (every 10-15 minutes) until all dissolved Syrup will be clear but “opaque” These formulas are “volume” mixture not weight. By weight formulas are “slightly” different.
CHECK OUT OUR READY TO FEED, ESSENTIAL OIL INFUSED SYRUP!
Fun Fact
2022 Queens Your choice: Golden Cordovan Italian/Carniolan
Image Credit: Backyardbeekeeping101.com
Beekeepers have been marking queens for many years. The following chart is actually an “International” color chart queen breeders follow in order to track the age of a queen. Although there is no guarantee the marking will last due to continual “grooming” done by her court – most often the marking remains visible for the lifetime of the queen bee. Each year has a different color. The color for 2022 is Yellow!
S P R I N G S P L I T S C L A S S
Join our Expert Team of Beekeepers to learn how to effectively and safely split your spring hives! This class covers all the basics in making splits, both inside the classroom and in an apiary. Topics covered for this popular class include: Ordering queens for your split How to prepare your hive to split Hive strength requirements for splitting Making the split Feeding & installing a queen To Move, or not to move Post split care Queen acceptance and more. Class will begin at 9:00 am and concludes at 12:00 pm Blue Ridge - March 12th Dayton/Huffman - March 19th
Dr. Jamie Ellis Gahan Endowed Professor of Entomology Department of Entomology and Nematology at the University of Florida
Ed Erwin Master Beekeeper Mentor Director Montgomery County Beekeepers Assn. Founder BeeHarmony.org
Chris Moore Moore Honey Farm Founder - ©Real Texas Honey Produces and sells honey in 5 - SE Texas Counties
Michael Kelling President Central Texas Beekeepers Association Master Beekeeper
How often should a hive be requeened?
Cameron Crane Liberty County Beekeepers Association Owner Crane Meadows
Requeening is arguably one of the most "under-done" task for new beekeepers. Theory: If the old queen is doing the job, why replace her? Studies show a queen will have utilized 60% of her laying capacity within the first year. If that holds true, each laying season will deplete the remaining eggs/sperm available within 2 years, rendering a queen incapable of being productive. Let's ask the experts what they think.
Questions answered LIVE on our monthly webinar!
Placement of feeder Q. If I reverse my boxes, do I need to move the feeder? A. In a double deep scenario, having the frame feeder in the top is essential for ease of feeding. When reversing your brood boxes, simply trade places with an outside frame in the box moving up and the frame feeder – ensuring the feeder stays on the same side as previously placed. Ants in my Hive Q. How can I treat for ants at my hive? A. Ants can be a big problem in some areas. First and foremost – try to eliminate what is causing the ants to congregate in your bee yard. Moisture is a huge factor like found in rotten wood (pallets or platforms) or cavities with dirt (cinder block openings). Another attractant is sugar syrup. Often times we spill a bit while filling feeders. This can and will attract ants. Mitigating your spillage will go a long way in preventing ant infestations. As far as getting rid of them once they are there – granular ant killers can be carefully sprinkled on ant mounds and on the ground around your hive. Our bees don’t forage on the ground “typically,” and granules aren’t as likely to cause an issue. Ground drenches and any other liquid pesticide should be avoided around any hives. Stung through my gloves Q. I’m getting stung through my leather bee gloves. Am I the only one?? A. No you aren’t the only one… Depending on the “agitation factor,” bees can get very testy and attack our hands as we work them. It is not at all uncommon to feel “pricks” through your quality leather bee gloves. Leather isn’t impenetrable. It will most often protect our hands from a stinger going through but will still allow the end of the stinger to stick us. The best protection against this is to double up! Wearing a pair of nitrile gloves under your leather gloves can go a long way toward helping – the thicker the better. They come in various thicknesses; the larger the number the thicker they are (7 or 8 ml is the thickest.) You can find these at stores such as Harbor Freight or Northern Tools or online. Box separation Q. I’ve had trouble with my boxes separating at the joints. I’ve been using nails to put them together, but I guess I need to go to screws. A. More importantly, glue is needed. Nails or even staples can be sufficient, but glue is an absolute must. Also, ongoing maintenance of your boxes will help extend the life of the box. Bee hives are primarily made from pine. Natural wood shrinks and expands as the moisture and heat level fluctuates. This back and forth movement is a prime factor in the separation you’re experiencing. Keeping a fresh coat of paint on our boxes each year will help protect the openings that do occur and help prevent rotting at those joints. Winter is a perfect time for this chore. On a cool day while the bees are staying indoors, simply apply a coat of paint on the box and they won’t care a bit. I would suggest wearing at least a veil though…that 1 guard bee is liable to get you as you paint the front around the entrance. Mixing Bees Q. Can I mix bee breeds in my apiary? I was thinking about trying the Golden Cordovans, but I have Italian bees now. A. You absolutely can! Diversity in your bee yard will happen organically as time goes on anyway. Anytime we requeen a hive we tend to deviate from the original breed or origin of the colony simply due to availability. Golden Cordovan’s are very gentle and easy to work with and are a great addition to your bee yard!
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Bee Nutty Choco-Chip Cookies
YIELD:Makes 16 cookies INGREDIENTS 1/2 cup - honey 1/2 cup - peanut butter 1/2 cup - butter or margarine 1/4 cup - packed brown sugar 1 - egg 1 1/2 tsp. - vanilla 2 cups - flour 1/2 tsp. - baking soda 1/2 tsp. - salt 6 oz. - chocolate morsels 1/2 cup - roasted peanuts, coarsely chopped DIRECTIONS Combine honey, peanut butter, butter and brown sugar in a large bowl; beat until light and fluffy. Add egg and vanilla; mix thoroughly. Combine flour, soda and salt; mix well. Stir into peanut butter mixture. Stir in chocolate morsels and peanuts. Using a 1/4 cup measure for each cookie, drop onto ungreased cookie sheet; flatten slightly. Bake at 350°F 8 to 10 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove to rack and cool.
Walker County Beekeepers Association 1402 19th Street Huntsville, TX 77340 Last Thursday of each month Q & A on the front porch at 6:30, meeting at 7:00 PM
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Denton County Beekeepers Association Meets the 2nd Tuesday of each month both in-person and on zoom! Dates, location and link may be found at www.dentonbees.com and on Facebook
Elm Fork Beekeepers 3rd Thursday each month in person or Zoom at the VFW Hall in Gainsville, TX. Go to: elmforkbeekeepers.org for Zoom link
Tri-County Beekeepers Association 4th Tuesday @ 5:30 pm of each month Sam's Restaurant - Fairfield, TX
Lamar County Beekeepers Association Meets 1st Thursday each month at 6:30 Red River Valley Fairground - Building B Paris, Texas
Montgomery County Beekeepers Association 3rd Monday of each month 9020 Airport Rd. Conroe, TX 77303 Non-members welcome! www.mocobees.com
Kaufman Area Beekeepers Association Second Tuesday each month at 6:30 pm United Methodist Church, 208 S. Houston St. Kaufman, TX New Beekeepers Q & A 5:45-6:15
Comal County BeeKeepers Association First Thursday each month at 6:30 - 7:00 dinner - 7:00 - 8:30 meeting Beefy's on the Green - Spring Branch, TX
Pineywoods Beekeepers Association 2nd Thursday each month Lufkin Angelina County Chamber of Commerce 1615 S. Chestnut (just off Loop 287 across from Lowe's) Lufkin, TX
Hill County Beekeepers Association In - Person meetings every 3rd Tuesday of the month 6:30 at Hill County Annex Office, Hillsboro, TX
Wood County Beekeepers Association 1st Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm! The current meeting location is the Winnsboro Civic Center
Harris County Beekeepers 4th Tuesday each month - 6:30 Meet & Greet - 7:00 meetings start - 5001 W. Oak, Pasadena TX 77504 Harris County Beekeepers Association
Austin Area Beekeepers Association Third Thursday each month at 7:00 pm Frickett Scout Center For meeting details CLICK HERE!
Fort Bend Beekeepers 2nd Tuesday of each month (except Dec) in person or online. Bud O'Shieles Community Center 1330 band Road, Rosenberg, TX
Hays County Beekeepers Association In - Person meetings every 3rd Wednesday of the month 6:30 -9pm at Suds Monkey Brewing Company - 12024 US-290, Austin, TX
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Central Texas Beekeepers Association Washington County Fairgrounds VIP room 4th Thursday of each month, 7:00 pm For more information go to CentralTexasBeekeepers.org
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Houston Beekeepers Association 3rd Tuesday each month in person at Bayland Community Center, 6400 Bissonnet St Houston, TX 77074 HoustonBeekeepers.org
Liberty County Beekeepers Association First Tuesday each month at 6:30 Texas Bee Supply in Dayton/Huffman For more information go to LibertyCountyBeekeepers.org
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Photo Credit: Rich Beggs
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Behaviorally, Apis cerana is almost indistinguishable from Apis mellifera. Apis cerana is known to be a very docile, gentle, and even somewhat timid, but there can be large differences in their defensiveness depending on season and region. Apis cerana colonies tend to swarm and abscond (abandon a hive location) more frequently than do Apis mellifera colonies. When fanning to circulate air at the colony entrance, Apis cerana workers face the opposite direction that Apis mellifera workers face when performing the same task. Apis mellifera workers face the hive entrance, but Apis cerana workers face away from the colony entrance. Finally, Apis cerana has several unique responses to disturbances including: fast and sudden lateral body shaking of workers, the production of a hissing sound, and heat balling. University of Florida
Thanks to Stan Gore - Texas Friendly Beekeepers for sharing this photo!
Clarence, a beekeeper in Singapore, did a cut-out recently and wondered if he got the queen. What do you think? Note: This is Apis Cerana NOT Apis Malifera