TheBeeSupply.com
THE BEE SUPPLY
Monthly
Cover Photo: Jennifer Giannobile
January 2023
Feature Topics Drifting Setting Up Bee Yards Overcoming Adversity in Beekeeping Requeening vs Letting Bees Raise Their Own
Edition 31
Table Of Contents
Did you miss last month's issue? Click the cover below and step inside. We welcome your feedback and submissions! Beekeeping Questions: help@texasbeesupply.com
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8 Monthly Tips 10 Drifting 16 Setting Up Bee Yards 22 January Bees by Geographic Zone 27 Can you spot the mistake? 28 Talk with the Expert - Blake Shook 30 What's the Buzz? Insulated Hives 32 Winter Hive Checks 34 New Product Alert! Warming Pads 36 Requeening vs Letting Bees Raise Their Own 38 How to Calculate How Many Queens to Order for Spring Splits 40 Overcoming Adversity in Beekeeping 44 The Most Common Mistakes a Beekeeper Makes 46 Hive Check Temperature Guide 48 Bees Poop Too! Cleansing Flights 50 Cleaning Wax/Propolis off! 52 Cooking With Honey 54 Sugar to Honey Conversion Chart 61 New Product Alert - PURA Hive Boxes 64 Webinar Q & A 66 Recipe - Honey Lemon Bars 68 U.S. Drought Map
Page Topic
IS NOW
A candid talk with Blake and Lyndon on the TBS name change
NEW NAME, SAME TEXAS FAMILY-BASED COMPANY, STILL "TBS"!
TBS is growing and we’re taking you with us! Although we're somewhat biased toward Texas’ iconic trademarks like our BBQ, State Fair, and of course beekeepers, our educational tools and innovative quality products are catching on outside Texas too! As we expand our e-commerce sales to neighboring states, we need a name that will apply a bit more broadly but keep the same "TBS" that Texas beekeepers have come to know and trust. Other than a slight name change, what you’ve come to depend on with TBS will remain the same – but as always, our plans are as big as Texas! One big push for us in 2023 is creating more localized beekeeping education. In Texas alone, there are 4 different planting zones. When we began building tools and resources on how to keep bees in every zone and county in Texas, we went ahead and started doing the same for the entire USA. Growth is essential to fund those big ideas! No, we haven't sold TBS or brought on investors. :) We are still Texas-based, with Texas-only stores. As we grow, however, our goal is to become better than ever. Better products, better prices, MORE localized practical education, and more resources than before. At our heart we love talking and teaching about bees; we just sell stuff to pay the bills to let us keep doing that! Thank you from all of us at TBS! Owners- Blake, Lyndon & Tammy Shook
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Beekeeping is one of the most fascinating hobbies out there - whether you are new to beekeeping or are in need of a refresher course - Let us be your guide! This all inclusive 1 day course will lead you through the basic functions of the hive, protective gear, woodenware, how to manage your hive and much more!
2023 BEGINNING BEEKEEPING CLASSES
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3 In some regions, beekeepers will begin noticing bees bringing in pollen on warm days mid to late January. Areas where pollen does start coming in, expect to see the queen to start laying. As the population begins to grow, the need for food grows as well. Feeding sugar bricks or pollen patties can help ensure that your hive has sufficient food available to start or continue rearing brood mid to late January. If your hive is at least a deep box full of bees and has less than 20 lbs. of stores in their second box, begin feeding small amounts (1 pint per hive, per week) of syrup to ensure the bees have the food necessary to rear brood. When weather allows inspections (temperatures at or above 55 degrees), hives with 2 frames of bees or less should be combined with another hive. It is perfectly normal this time of year to notice a few dozen dead bees in front of your hive. This is a good sign that your hive is cleaning house, removing the die off of winter bees being replaced by the next generation. Late January or early February is time to test for Varroa mites. If you have more than 2 mites per 100 bees, treat. Most treatments are extremely effective this time of year when the hive has little to no brood. Quick (30 second) looks into your hive are acceptable even if the weather is near freezing. Longer, several minute long inspections should be reserved for days above 55 degrees. Order bees and Queens!
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By: Blake Shook
JANUARY TIPS
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By Chari Elam
Bees have brains the size of a grain of rice and have no trouble flying the most direct path home - a feat most humans can only do with the assistance of a GPS!
Have you ever wondered how a honey bee knows where she lives? We’ve all heard of the waggle dance… a seemingly well-orchestrated communication devised to share the location of forage – but what about learning “home base”? Young bees, typically between the ages of 5-18 days post emergence will make a series of orientation flights to learn their location in anticipation of becoming a forager. New beekeepers that have seen this action often freak out the first time, convinced “the bees are leaving me”! Oh, admit it… you did too… :)
One would think that this ingrained imprint of home base would be stuck in their inner compass, never to be deviated from, but, not necessarily! Several factors come into play when navigating the flight back: Position relative to the sun Landmarks around the hive Pheromones Learned behavior If any of these components are compromised or other factors (wind for example) interfere, drifting can come into play. When a honey bee attempts to enter the wrong hive, you would think that the guard bees wouldn’t allow it, however, more often than not, they do! Think of it like this, if someone shows up at your door with an arm full of groceries would you let them in? I would say so! Same with honey bees. For the most part drifting is just part of the day-to-day gain and loss of population. But to the beekeeper drifting can become a problem for several reasons. Population – The loss of bees can result in a reduced workforce to bring in resources, less thermoregulation in the hive, as well as less protection for the hive. Conversely – drifting can help weaker hives needing the population! Varroa – Varroa mites are spread by jumping from bee to bee, bee to cell – therefore drifting spreads Varroa infestations. Food resources – This directly relates to the population statement above. If food isn’t coming in because the forager got side tracked or is being consumed by bees that didn’t live here yesterday…either way – the balance has been jeopardized. Minimizing Drifting in your bee yard When you read studies, the two primary reasons honey bees drift are prevailing winds and hive arrangement. Knowing that, we should do our best to compensate for both – yes, even prevailing winds! In our area, the prevailing winds come from the southeast. Although we like to face our hives this direction, we are more cognizant of surroundings, utilizing natural structure (trees for example) as our “wind block” to help prevent drifting from wind. That leaves us with hive placement. I want to pull away from research and go straight to experience with this one. We’ve tried every configuration you can think of: Platform stands – Multiple hives all facing the same way… that didn’t work – the center hives continually stayed weak due to drifting. Then we had the bright idea (I’m sure it was James’) to alternate each hive's entrance on the platform opposite of each other… who among you knows what problem that caused? Yes, you’re right! We couldn’t work the bees because no matter what, to stand behind a hive to work it, we were standing in front of the hive beside it!!! Individual hive stands in a row spread apart facing the same direction – This does work much better. But unless you move them substantially apart not so much. What works best for us – Individual hive stands spread at least 10 feet apart and in a huge circle or horseshoe pattern with the entrances facing out. I realize not everyone has room to do this – but if you think it through, even a backyard beekeeper can achieve this to some degree. If you have multiple hives, just place them on opposite sides of your yard and face them away from each other. Finally – I do believe there is legitimacy in painting your boxes differently. For those that like to “art up” your bee boxes – you win! I believe this works and so do some studies! The problem with this is, as your bee yard grows, and your boxes get traded back and forth between hives you could end up with some really strange art – ha-ha! My suggestion, paint a big circle (or square for those who suffer from trypophobia) on the front of the bottom brood box. For most hobby beekeepers that box remains in the same place for a long time. The single circle (or square) seems to be enough to guide the foragers back to home base. And not to veer too far off topic – any of you really artistic box people - I have about 30 hives that could really use your help!
Drifting
Orientation Flight Video
Do bees really know where they live?
HIVE STANDS
Single hive stands are a great way to minimize ground contact - minimizing weed obstructions and small pests such as ants. Plus, they are lightweight and easy to move!
1st Thursday of Each Month Next meeting January 5th 6:30 pm - 8:00 pm
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Join Blake Shook as he walks you through what's going on in your hives and prepares you for the month to follow! James and Chari Elam answer your questions LIVE and present short practical timely topics.
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Upcoming Agenda
Live in the Bee Yard Tips Late winter inspections Feeding Needs Gearing up for spring! Wooden ware Live Q & A
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There's no better time to plan than now - before your bees arrive in the spring!
Setting Up Bee Yards By: Blake Shook
For new beekeepers setting up your bee yard for the first time is exciting and intimidating all at once! Often, if done right the first time, you’ll never have to move or change locations with your hives unless you want to. How Close Together Can I Place Hives? I suggest you read Chari’s article in this issue on drifting for good long-term layout information, but overall, I recommend placing hives at a comfortable working distance apart. That can be as close as 3-5 feet which allows you room to easily get between hives to work them. From the bees’ standpoint, they can be a few inches apart, and operate perfectly fine. How Should I Arrange Hives in a Bee Yard? There are endless configurations when it comes to laying out hives in each location, but in general, the more random the pattern, the more easily bees will find their individual hives. A perfectly spaced, straight line of uniform white boxes looks great, but makes it more difficult for the bees to find their own personal homes. That being said, for only a few hives, you can still line up white ones without causing issues. If you have many hives, try a horseshoe pattern, or paint each hive or lid a different color, or place some objects in the bee yard so they can orient themselves more easily. It also works to paint a different shape or symbol on the lower brood box. If you are like me and you aren’t much of an artist, you can place hives along a tree line. Positioned correctly this can provide afternoon shade in the heat of the summer, and allow bees to easily find their hive due to the variations of the tree line. Bees and Neighbors No matter where you live, bees can cause issues when it comes to neighbors. Here are some tips when it comes to bees and neighbors: A common phrase in beekeeping is “out of sight, out of mind”. We work hard to hide our hives for their safety. Typically, if your hives are readily visible, it can cause issues. Put them behind a privacy fence, or trees, etc. With neighbors nearby, ensure your bees remain gentle. Use plenty of smoke, don’t work them in poor weather, mow right before dark, and only use gentle breeds. If your bees do become defensive as you work them, stop, smoke them heavily, and try a different day. If they are continually aggressive, move them or requeen. If your neighbors are complaining about your bees, ask what the issue is. Often they say they are allergic to bees, and don’t like them on their flowering plants and bushes. Let them know that there are dozens of wild hives that forage on the same plants and you moving your bees won’t help. They can cut down their flowering plants if they don’t want bees around their home. Educate your neighbors. Teach them about bees, offer to suit them up and show them how gentle your bees are. A jar of honey gifted to them goes a very long way! That will solve many issues. Let the neighbor talk to another experienced beekeeper you trust. Sometimes a “neutral” third expert can help calm things down. Ultimately, if neighbors continually complain, I usually end up moving my bees to a different location on my property, or in the case of a small backyard, move them somewhere out in a rural area. Mowing and Maintaining your Bee Yard Mowing and edging around beehives is not always easy! Bees hate the noise and vibration of either and can quickly become agitated. I recommend mowing and edging in the late evening, right before dark when the bees are much less likely to fly. Put your bee suit on just in case you bump the hive, or they become more agitated than expected; smoke the hives, then mow and edge as quickly as possible. It also helps to put some form of weed barrier under and around each hive, so you don’t have to edge right up against them. If you use some form of weed killer (ideally natural weed killer) around the hives, ensure it does not get into the hives. Apply it at night, so it can dry all night and the bees won’t come in contact with it the next day. Providing a Water Source In summer months, bees need water to help keep the hive cool. If you are in a rural area, just ensure there is a stream, pond, or lake ¼-½ a mile away. If so, your bees should be just fine. If there is not, or if you are in a residential area, it is ideal to provide them with a water source. This is to ensure they have water and discourage them from bothering neighbors. A water faucet dripping into a bucket of gravel works great! Chicken waterers work well, as do any containers with plenty of flotation options to keep the bees from drowning. The water doesn’t have to be clean and fresh...bees actually prefer old and dirty water! Make sure it doesn’t run out, even for a day, as that will cause the bees to switch to an alternate source, which may be your neighbor's swimming pool. Also make sure the water is in the shade, as bees don’t like hot water in full sun. To attract bees to a new water source, you can try baiting them with some sugar syrup mixed with essential oils right next to the water source. What to do If bees are in the neighbor's swimming pool It is very difficult to prevent or stop bees from drinking from a swimming pool. They actually like the chlorine, and once they have begun sourcing water from one location, they typically stick with it until it dries up. If you are in an urban area, or have neighbors with pools, it is important to proactively give your bees a water source beginning in the late spring. If that isn’t working, and your bees are still in your neighbor's pool, you have a few options. 1) If approached with concern – they could just as easily be wild bees as your bees. There is no guarantee that if you were to move your bees, your neighbors won’t continue having problems. 2) Bees don’t like agitated water, so if there is a practical way to agitate the water in the pool for a few days, while providing an alternate waters source for your bees, it may help. 3) Some also say peppermint oil applied around the edge of a pool helps deter bees as well. All that being said, there does not seem to be a foolproof way to stop them unfortunately.
HIVE BOXES
Are some of these boxes yours? We're hard at work getting as many boxes painted as we can so they will be ready for you! Time to stock up and be prepared for spring!
For most of the nation January is the coldest time of the year and the hardest time for our bees. Geographically, northern states are insulated in knee deep snow while southern states occasionally see 50 + degree days! What a diametrically different environment! Although 1000’s of miles apart, most beekeepers share the same goals: Monitor food stores regularly Keep the hive interior dry Minimize entry The best approach – create a schedule and stick to it! The following lays out a generalized guide for getting you through the hardest part of winter for most of us.
By: Chari Elam
January Bees by Geographic Zone
Northeast (Mid Atlantic – New England) The average January temperature in the northeast is a low of 27 F and high of 40 F. Depending on the year, extreme weather conditions such as January 2022, found the entire region under 18-24 inches of snow! Although it doesn't happen every year, severe weather conditions require closer hive monitoring. Expect that your bees are in their winter cluster and consuming substantial resources because of temperature fluctuations. Remember: the harder they have to work keeping the cluster warm, the more resources they take in. You should have started with 90-100 lbs. of stored honey going into winter – and can expect by the end of this month to possibly need to supplement some hives. Do a quick lift of the back of your hive with your hive tool; if light, feed dry sugar, fondant, and/or Soft Sugar Bricks. The queen most likely isn’t laying at all but being well cared for by the cluster that surrounds her. Hive inspections should be exterior only. Verify the entrance is clear from snow, giving the bees the opportunity to drag out dead bees on warmer days and to do a cleansing flight (poop). To verify your hive is surviving, put your ear against the top box and listen – if you don’t hear anything, give it a tap and they should respond. Tip: If you see an abundance of dead bees on the ground or snow after an extended cold period, this is actually a good sign! That means the girls are up cleaning house at the first opportunity they have!
Midwest (West North Central – East North Central) The upper Midwest is cold! These bees are in tight cluster, enduring low temperatures (in some cases) below zero for long periods of time – and highs only reaching 10 F – 30 F. The queen isn’t laying and won’t be for weeks. Food resources having started out over 100 lbs. (hopefully) are slowly being consumed because very little is happening in the hive. Food resources need to stay close as breaking cluster could cost them their life. Verify the entrances aren’t blocked by snow and consider a top entrance if continual snow prevents the bottom entrance from staying open. Due to high winds in the upper Midwest, check hive covers to ensure they aren’t lifting; if they are, place a heavy brick on the top. Ratchet straps aren’t always a good idea, as they squeeze a hive so tightly no ventilation can be gained. Insulated hives are great but verify your moisture boards are functioning properly – change absorption material if it becomes saturated. Tip: If you use a product like Homasote for your moisture board, allow it to dry and use it again! For the southern portion of the Midwest, temperatures are a bit warmer (29 F – 40 F). This allows the bees more opportunities to do cleansing flights and push out the dead bees that have accumulated on the bottom board on warm days. Hive inspections are strictly observation only with the exception of a warmer day here and there. Test the weight of the hive by lifting the back of the box with your hive tool – if light, add dry sugar or a Soft Sugar Brick. The queen will start laying slowly toward the end of the month so be prepared to supplement pollen going into February.
South (West South Central, East South Central, and South Atlantic) The south’s winter temperatures average a low of 40 F and high of 70. This, of course, is subject to change in a split second! There’s one thing a southerner will tell you – “If you don’t like the weather, give it a minute – it’ll change!” This is so true when working with bees in the southern states. While Florida doesn’t normally go below 40 F – last year a polar plunge in late January dropped temperatures to decade record lows! Check your resources by doing weight tests frequently (tilt test) with your hive tool at the back of the hive. For the most part 30-60 lbs. of stored honey at the beginning of winter should get you through until March. For others, if light – feed heavy syrup in warmer conditions, sugar blocks, and/or Soft Sugar Bricks to get them through. For hives in the colder regions of the south, insulation (if done) should be limited to the lid only. If no moisture board was installed, verify you aren’t getting a moisture buildup as the daily temperatures fluctuate from cold to warm. A penny or toothpick installed under the lid can help alleviate this problem. Hive inspections should remain external unless a quick check is taken on a warm day (above 55 F). Bees will break cluster and take cleansing flights on the warmer days, ensuring your hive is doing well. The queen will begin laying by mid/late January, so keeping a close eye on food is crucial. The south’s “bee spring” is much sooner than others – requiring supplemental feeding ahead of other regions.
Photo Credit: Nanette Davis
Can you spot the mistake?
West (Pacific – Mountain) This region has multiple climate zones. While Washington, Oregon, Montana, and Idaho can get and stay quite cold (below freezing for long periods of time) – from California east are relatively moderate… much like southern Midwest and even the south! For those in the most northern areas, follow the same suggestions and precautions as those in the upper Midwest – likewise Utah, Colorado and even northern Nevada can follow the same schedule as the southern Midwest region. California, southern Nevada, Arizona, and New Mexico will be much more temperate like the western portion of the south. Hive inspections can be done (regardless of the time of year) if temperatures are above 55 F. The warmer the climate, the faster population growth will occur and the more resources they will consume. Ask any commercial beekeeper… they are pumping pollen patties to their hives mid-January to prepare for their migration to California Almond pollination.
Although areas specifically have their own dynamics of a January hive, it’s important to realize these bees are just weeks (in some cases days) away from spring population growth. Monitoring the food – keeping the food source close to tight clusters in super cold climates – supplementing when low – and doing our part as to hive box conditions, can make or break your overwintering hives. Get ready beekeepers – Spring is right around the corner, even for those still knee (or waist) deep in snow!
A well known beekeeper(s) posted this picture on Facebook with pure excitement in anticipation of getting their first bees! Can you spot anything "not right" about this picture? And can you "Name that Beekeeper(s)?" Answer on Pg. 64
So many people have seen Blake Shook on countless videos and webinars - but who is the guy behind the camera? Watch as Blake tells us how he started in beekeeping and just how much commercial beekeeping is like small scale beekeeping ... "it's basically all the same management!" Check it out!
Super-sized store front packed full of supplies! In-Store Classes and knowledgeable staff available to help answer questions and guide you through your bee and beekeeping purchases! Grand Opening details on the way soon!
Talk with the Expert Introducing Blake Shook
The Bee Supply 1205 Round Rock Avenue Suite 119 Round Rock, TX 78681
AUSTIN AREA STORE
with Chari Elam
Opening Day is just around the corner!
The Photography of Coley Ogg
Coroplast Hive Shade - A political sign, sandwiched between two pavers does wonders for stopping heat loss out of the top cover.
By: Lynne Jones
Honey bees are masters of thermoregulation. In temperatures below 57˚F they form a cluster and generate heat by shivering their flight muscles. In summer, they cool the hive by evaporative cooling, spreading water on the edges of cells and fanning their wings. In nature's home of bees (a cavity in a tree trunk) the mass of the tree provides natural insulation. A colony surrounded by five inches of tree trunk has an R-value of about 5.6 on the sides and easily doubles that amount above and below. By comparison, the typical Langstroth bee hive is commonly made from ¾” pine which has an R-value of less than 1. With so little insulation, thermoregulation requires a lot of energy in extremely cold and extremely hot weather. In Thomas Seeley’s book, The Lives of Bees, he devotes an entire chapter to Temperature Control. As a proponent of using hives that provide good insulation, Seeley says, “These might be hives built of thick lumber, or they might be hives made of plastic foam.” Over the past year, perhaps due to Seeley’s advice, I have noticed there seems to be a lot of interest in Apimaye hives. Apimaye’s Thermo Bee Hive is a brand of insulated bee hives. Apimaye hives are made of High Density Poly Ethylene (HDPE) with UV protection and have an insulating R-value of 6.93. They are designed to use wood or plastic Langstroth frames. I determined the regular price of 2-Deep hive kits range from $97 to $370. For comparison, the average cost of an unassembled and unpainted wood 1-Deep kit, plus an extra unassembled Deep is $140. Most of us have already invested in wood hives and are unlikely to abandon them outright and replace with insulated hives, but even wood hives can be insulated without woodworking skills. In both winter and summer, using an insulated hive cover should be the first course of action. In winter, 75% of heat lost is through the top. An insulated cover will reduce heat loss, but more importantly, it will prevent condensation when it meets a cold cover. In summer, insulation placed under or above the roof will help stabilize temperatures inside the hive. An insulated hive cover or an insulation box made specifically for vertical hives is an easy solution as well. The hive wraps commonly used for winter insulation are easy to DIY with a roll of fiberglass insulation, a roll of heavy‑duty, UV‑resistant plastic sheeting, duct or gorilla tape, scissors, and a tape measure. Black plastic is used for winter wraps because it will absorb heat from the sun, but if your goal is to prevent summer sun from adding heat to the hive, clear and white plastic sheeting is also available. XPS foam board can be purchased in thicknesses of ½ “(R-3), 1” (R-5) and 2” (R-10). Foil faced polyisocyanurate foam board is typically ¾" thick and provides R‑5 insulation. Pieces, cut to fit the sides of the hive, can be taped together, or held in place with stretch film wrap or a ratchet strap. Cut another piece to place over the hive cover and weigh it down with a concrete paver or cinder block. We know bee colonies can survive in wooden hives in both extremely cold and extremely hot environments, but they have to work hard to do so. Given the other difficulties our honey bees are subjected to, such as diminishing nectar sources, pesticides, and varroa mites – providing insulated hives seems like the least we should do for them.
What's the Buzz? Insulated Hives
Photo: Lynne Jones
More Info
Photo Credit: Rich Beggs Apimaye Hives performing in icy weather
If you would like to share with me the method you use to insulate wood hives, you can message me on Facebook or send an email to BrazosRiverHoney77474@gmail.com
This a great product for overwintering nucs, or small/weak hives less than 1 deep box full of bees. Smaller, weaker hives will benefit from the help of an additional heat source. Install when daytime temperatures are consistently below 60 degrees, and remove when they are above 60 degrees. We don't recommend using an entrance reducer when installed directly on the bottom board. We also recommend creating a very small, 1/4 in or less upper entrance to help prevent condensation. This can be done by cracking the outer cover only open with a popsicle stick.
An innovative new way to keep your small/weak hives or nucs toasty during the cold winter months! HIGH QUALITY: Made of tough, outdoor materials, designed to be durable, flexible, and waterproof. Easily wipes clean. STABLE & UNIFORM HEATING: The low amp heat is evenly spread in the heating pad to achieve the effect of even heating. The maximum temperature only warms the hive about 10-15 degrees above the outdoor temperature- enough to help keep small hives alive, but not enough to over heat them. EASY TO USE: Just place the heating pad flat on your bottom board, or under your screened bottom board and plug it in! It automatically turns on and warms the inside of the hive by 10-15 degrees. You can also install between the inner & outer cover, but it will not keep the hive as warm since heat rises!
NEW PRODUCT ALERT!
I WANT IT!
WARMING PAD for Nucs and Small or Weak Hives
Listen to my short explanation on this topic
Requeening vs Letting Bees Raise Their Own
DRONE LAYER BROOD
This topic is often debated and a frequently asked question. As usual with debated topics, this issue has pros and cons on both sides. I want to share my opinion based on my experience, then outline the pros and cons for you to make the final decision. In my opinion, it is rarely best to allow the bees to rear their own queen vs installing one as a beekeeper. Pros for allowing bees to raise their own queen: It is free, assuming they actually do it, and you end up with a mated queen. The bees will always accept a queen they raise for themselves. You don’t have to worry about finding a queen to remove, ordering her, installing her, etc. Cons for allowing bees to raise their own queen: Unknown genetics - Areas with Africanized bees could end up with a very defensive hive. Even if you do not have aggressive bees in the area, 50% of genetics come from feral drones in the area and you have no control over those genetics. Time - It takes bees 12 days to raise a new queen from a 24-hour old larva, an average of 7 days for that newly hatched virgin to mate, then about 7+ days for her to begin to lay. In total, that is at least 26 days before you have a laying queen. If you requeen or split, and put a new queen in within 24 hours, and she is out and laying in 5 days, that’s 20 days faster. That can make a huge difference in the long-term strength of a hive. The virgin queen may not mate - If the weather is poor and the virgin does not mate within 2 weeks of hatching, she typically will not mate at all. This will result in a “drone layer”, which is when an unmated queen lays only unfertilized eggs, developing into drones. The virgin queen may not make it back to the hive - It’s not uncommon for virgin queens to get lost or eaten on their mating flight and never make it back to the hive. At this point, your hive won’t have any more eggs or larva to raise a new queen. If you don’t intercede, the hive will eventually die. The virgin queen may be poorly mated - If there are not enough drones present, or the weather prevents a virgin queen from making enough mating flights, she may be poorly mated and only last a few months, or lay drones mixed with worker bees.
As we start to wrap our heads around needing to order queens for spring splits, it would be helpful to know ahead of time just how many queens we will need! Although there are numerous ways to make a split, it's relatively easy to estimate how many you can make regardless of how you do it! Here are the questions you’ll need to answer: How many hives do I estimate will need to be split? How many frames of brood and resources do I expect in those hives? What size splits do I want to make? Small, medium, or large? (I’ll explain) What equipment do I have on hand vs what will I need to order? A splittable hive is usually 2 deeps, with no less than 8-10 frames of brood total. The size of the split means how many frames of brood you’ll require for each split. Typically, that means: *Small split – 1-3 frames of brood *Medium split – 3-4 frames of brood *Large split – 4+ frames of brood Now that you know this, it should be rather easy to calculate how many queens you’ll need to order. Examples: *Double deep with 8-10 frames of brood, making a medium split should order 2 queens (1 to requeen the parent hive, and 1 for the new "split" = 2 "splits" from that colony) *Double deep with 12-14 frames of brood, making a medium split should order 3 queens (1 to requeen the parent hive, and 2 for the "splits" = 3 "splits" from that colony) Am I insinuating you can’t split a single hive or a small double deep? No… not necessarily – this is where management plays a big role. A single deep with 5-7 frames of brood can be split but as we learned, that will be a small split. The most you could expect is to order 2 queens (1 to requeen and 1 for the split). In regard to the small double deep hive – this would be the least likely candidate to split. I would more recommend requeening (order 1 queen) and get the population and hive health back up and consider a summer split down the road. Lastly – take advantage of time indoors to purchase, build, and paint your needed woodenware. For every split you’ll need at least 1 deep, 10 frames, a lid, and bottom board. If utilizing Nuc boxes, you’ll need 1 for every split (other than the parent colony). As you saw in the January Tips – it is time to order Bees and Queens! Don’t procrastinate! There’s nothing worse than your bees being ready to split and you're still days or even weeks away from your queen order coming in… ask me how I know … ugh – Never again!!
ORDER NOW
Yes! You need to do that now!
2023 QUEENS TX 5000 OR GOLDEN CORDOVAN
How to Calculate How Many Queens to Order for Spring Splits
By: Kirk Kirksey
"When it comes to overcoming adversity, offense is the best defense."
Overcoming Adversity in Beekeeping
Beekeeping is hard and getting harder?! How can this be? Humans have been keeping bees for at least 4,000 years. Today we live in an age of super-charged science, powered by astonishing technology and instantaneous information. Shouldn't we know all there is to know about honey bees and beekeeping by now? Turns out the answer is “NO – not by a long shot.” Dr. Tom Seeley, renowned honey bee biologist from Cornell University, estimates "...that the fraction of the biology of the honey bee that anybody has examined carefully - enough that we have a good level of understanding - is less than 50%." It seems the honey bee is a very complex creature, and this makes effective beekeeping a very complex activity. To make things worse, there is a steady stream of new issues – loss of habitats; environmental concerns; killer hornets! The list seems endless. Taken individually, social scientists call these problems “adverse events.” Put all these adverse events together and you have adversity. Left unchecked, we know adversity can lead to discouragement, frustration, and all too often, a strong desire to throw in the towel. So, if an endless stream of beekeeping challenges is getting you down, take heart. Adversity can be beat. ACCENTUATE THE POSITIVE Solving problems is a beekeeper’s stock and trade. But solving problems one-by-one won’t outsmart adversity because those pesky adverse events just keep coming. The key to mastering adversity is keeping a positive attitude in spite of a continual barrage of problems. MAKING AN ANTI-ADVERSITY PLAN Getting positive doesn’t just happen. Scholars who study techniques for overcoming adversity teach that the best approach is to create a plan for developing and keeping a positive outlook. I’ve adapted some of their best suggestions to beekeeping. So, when beekeeping starts to get you down consider these suggestions: Invest in Good Equipment and Good Bees from Reputable Dealers You get what you pay for. When purchasing bees and beekeeping equipment it’s useful to keep this phrase in mind: Buying good equipment reduces the likelihood of dealing with breakage, frustrating repairs and expensive replacements that plague poor quality gear. When purchasing good bees from a reputable breeder you can have confidence you are getting the species you paid for plus you know the queen lineage/age is accurate, and that your new bees have been well cared for. A good supplier will answer your questions honestly, give good service, and help when problems arise with their products. Yes, I know this sounds expensive, and it can be. But experience proves that “buying good from good” is much cheaper and much less frustrating in the long run. Bottom line – don’t create needless problems that add to the adversity you already face. Savor the Positive Reflect on your beekeeping success and give yourself a pat on the back. Roll your wins around in your head. How did you do it? What were the key factors for success? Take time to ponder positive beekeeping stories or complements you receive. Beware the Self-Fulfilling Prophecy Studies show our current perception can help define our future reality. Negative thinking today leads to more adversity tomorrow. Stay positive and realize all beekeepers have setbacks. Hives will die. Colonies will abscond. Queens will vanish. These are not failures; they are learning experiences. Take pleasure from learning all you can from difficult situations. Celebrate Your Accomplishments Yes, you will have setbacks, but you will have accomplishments too. Look for the good you have done. Don’t be shy. Let the world know! Post a picture of that first jar of honey. Let your colleagues know about your successful split. Did your bees survive a particularly tough season? Now THAT’S an accomplishment worth shouting about. Try Checklists and Journaling Hive inspection checklists are great, but they work even better when combined with journaling. Make a beekeeping diary. Record your observations, and results of actions you’ve taken. According to one study this type of journaling can help you better process adversity. Set Measurable Goals Goal setting is a well-known tactic for increasing the possibility of success. To work, goals must be realistic and measurable. How about “Trying a New Method for Making a Split,” or “Marking a Queen” or “Testing a New Small Hive Beetle Trap”? And don’t forget - When you succeed, celebrate! Avoid the Know-It-All's A very wise beekeeper once told me that “Beekeeping is just a large room filled with opinions.” Let me give you a real-life example. A few months ago, I went to an out-of-state beekeeping conference. I was shocked when I heard an “expert” presenter tell the audience real beekeepers do not wear gloves. Never be intimidated by someone’s views and know there are many routes to successful beekeeping. Certainly, consider all ideas - But if something doesn’t work for you find a solution that does! It’s out there. I promise. In the face of ever-expanding adversity, it’s tempting to think about throwing in the towel. We all have been there. When it comes to overcoming adversity, offense is the best defense. Staying positive is the key. So, make a plan with things that work for you. Delete discouragement - Fight frustration - Expel Exasperation - Have fun - Don’t give up! The bees need you - We need you! By: Kirk Kirksey
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Celebrate your success! Add an element of "cool" to your beekeeping wardrobe with these women's aviators with gold bee embellishment!
Check out this short video where James and Chari Elam discuss the most common mistakes they've seen over the years.
Regardless of where you are in beekeeping…. Whether you are a new, 1st year… or even 5th year beekeeper, mistakes are made. After all, it’s how we learn! But if these mistakes were costing us time and money, we would want someone to tell us ahead of time so we could avoid those mistakes, right? Of course! Here are some “costly” mistakes that are best to avoid: Over researching – We’ve all either known someone or are that “someone” that watches every video, reads every article – to the point of confusion! Good education is an absolute necessity in beekeeping but being overwhelmed with information tends to over-complicate what can be somewhat basic! Stick to tried and true beekeeping videos and resources. Anyone can make a video – if you want to research something, research the person or company that you’re taking directions from. Stick with practical and you won’t go wrong. Hive Inspections – Schedule them, and stick with the schedule - and act when you see something you don’t understand or believe to be a problem. Inspect both bottom and top boxes! It is so common among beekeepers to simply avoid going into the bottom box. Not doing so can mask problems you could have fixed had you known. Most every issue our bees develop can be solved if acted on immediately. Bee Space – Making your own woodenware is great but understand there is a dimension required by the bees and adhere to it. Push all the frames back together after each inspection without fail. Avoid adding additional boxes until the existing hive is 80% full and only add when there is a nectar flow, or you are supplemental feeding. Varroa mites – There is no such thing as bees that will survive without controlling Varroa mites. That may sound like a harsh statement, but even if you choose to not use chemicals in treating for Varroa, you must control them somehow. There are multiple organic, mechanical, and cultural methods to manage mite infestations. The bottom line – test and treat if needed. Treating can be using any one of the Integrated Pest Management techniques. You decide which suits you and your bees best. Feeding – Probably the most underestimated aspect of beekeeping. Bees need us. We’ve all heard about the decline of the honey bees… it’s not just referring to pests and diseases! Bees can starve even when there are resources available. Doing regular hive inspections will show you if you need to supplement. If so, do so responsibly and continue feeding until the bees have sufficiently stored enough to do without our intervention…. Whether that is syrup or pollen.
The Most Common Mistakes a Beekeeper Makes
Bees in cluster. Open the hive only in emergency. Bees can not get far from the warmth of the cluster, so feed must be placed directly above it or beside if feeding back stored honey frames.
Complete hive inspections can be done, but use caution with brood comb to not leave it out too long.
Warm enough to do anything needing to be done - Hive inspection, splits, etc.
Hive Check Temperature Guide
Bees tightly clustered. Open the hive only in emergency, such as to feed or remove treatments. If feeding is necessary, use candy board or soft sugar bricks.
Bees will begin to fly at 55o in search of nectar and pollen. Quick hive checks can be made but use caution to avoid chilling the brood.
Bees are loosely clustered. Hive can be opened but use caution; only remove frames beside brood combs to look and not brood combs to avoid chilling the brood.
Picture credit: Ford New Vehicle Limited Warranty – certain items are not covered!
By: Nadia Clark
When my girls were about 4 years old, I took them to New Mexico to see and play in the snow for the first time. Out of that, a favorite memory and talking point for one of them was “making yellow snow” (wink - wink). As it turns out, the bees also know a lot on that topic! Bees are very sanitary creatures, keeping their living space spic and span! And one way they do this is not to poop inside their house! On a seasonally warm day bees take care of that particular task while they are out foraging. However, when the temperatures fall below 50 degrees, instead of flying they are clustered together inside the hive to keep warm. In more temperate regions mild winters and cold snaps usually last only a few days at a time, but in northern states cold weather persists for weeks or even months at a time! Prolonged periods of rain can also hinder the bees from leaving the hive. How do they hold it for that long? Bees’ anatomy allows them to store waste in their abdomen for weeks, even months. When the weather conditions improve the bees will leave the hive and perform a cleansing flight, which is a polite way of saying that they go outside to poop! But not all bees exit the hive at the same time. Doing so would leave the resources and the queen unprotected, also allowing the temperature inside the hive to drop which could endanger the entire colony. Instead, bees will go on short cleansing flights in shifts, always ensuring enough bees stay inside the beehive to perform in-hive duties. Some beekeepers provide upper entrances to aid the bees in taking cleansing flights. As warm air from the cluster rises, the upper entrance will be warmer compared to a bottom entrance which can sometimes be covered in snow or ice. Because of this upper entrance the bees stay warmer as they exit the hive, and also warm up faster as they re-enter. Beekeepers keeping bees in the snow can easily observe evidence of cleansing flights represented by yellowish spots in front of the hive. In other climates you may see these same spots on nearby structures or cars. Either way – it’s safe to say, our bees are indeed potty trained!
BEES POOP TOO! aka: Bees' Cleansing Flights
Photo credit: Tim Huffman – Beehives in Anchorage, Alaska
Check out this video by Tim Huffman Who knew a person could be so excited about bee poop?!
To clean gloves I just grab a handful of dirt soaked in mineral oil and rub.
To clean tools, simply push them into the sand mixture and then an hour later wipe them off.
Quick Tip
By: DW Schoenthal of Blue Green Horizons
After I’m done, I use some extra Mineral Oil I keep in a water bottle for added softening.
Tips: If you use unwashed sand there is a lot of dirt in it and your gloves will darken – instead use play sand; it’s washed. And DO NOT use Vegetable oil as it will quickly go rancid, and the smell will be bad.
Wax and propolis can be softened and removed using Food Grade Mineral Oil and a light abrasive. To do this – I keep a small bucket of “play sand” soaked in Food Grade Mineral Oil.
Because I do a lot of cutouts, my gloves and tools are often covered in wax and propolis. I came up with an easy method to clean it off, otherwise everything becomes sticky.
Research has shown that honey contains a wide array of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, and antioxidants. Flavonoids and phenolic acids, which act as antioxidants, are found in honey. Honey.com
Cooking With Honey
If you “research” cooking with honey, you just might get an alarming “Stop”, “Don’t Do It”, glaring you in the face! As most people know… ask 12 people 10 questions and you’ll get at least 12 answers of each. This assertion has even perplexed me… but after all, I’ve cooked with honey for years – maybe my mind has suffered some deficiencies along the way. But seriously, the claims that honey can become toxic when “high” heated is one I’ll not delve too deeply into – but the crux of it is based on a theory dating back 2000 years. To this day some still adhere to the belief that cooking honey to temperatures over 200 degrees can cause adverse chemical reactions resulting in unhealthy food. However, we all know that honey heated to temperatures above 120 degrees will degrade the good qualities in honey – but make it bad?! … I’ll leave that to each individual to decide. For me, I like to cook with honey and my family loves it when I do! Let’s briefly talk about the state of honey. Most of us use the liquid form of honey to add to our tea or sweeten our biscuit or toast, but often the liquid state makes it much harder to maintain the structure of a recipe. For instance – when substituting honey for sugar in a cake recipe the added “liquid” can affect the outcome. Therefore, consider using your more crystallized honey instead! Yes, it will melt in the cooking process but often without the structure issues. This is my own experience – I welcome anyone to test my hypothesis and let me know your results! According to blueflamekitchen.com when using honey instead of sugar for baking, several recipe changes need to be made: To substitute 1 cup of sugar: Use 2/3 cup honey. Honey is sweeter than sugar, so you need to use less. Decrease other liquids in the recipe by 1/4 cup, because there’s water in the honey too. Lower the baking temperature by 25°F. Honey makes baked goods brown faster. If there’s already another acidic ingredient in the recipe, add 1/4 teaspoon of baking soda when you use honey. Honey’s an acid, so if there’s buttermilk, molasses, or banana in the recipe, you’ll need to cancel it out with some baking soda. I honestly learned something here - #4 was a revelation to me! This answers a bitterness issue I’ve experienced in the past – Now we both know! In savory foods you are typically just adding honey to a glaze or sauce. Remember, it’s sweet – really sweet! Glazed Carrots for example – if you use honey instead of brown sugar, you’ll use only about a tablespoon of honey, when you would have used double that in brown sugar. Honey is a much richer sweetness and a little goes a long way. When making salsas and sauces the same applies … start with a little and gradually add until the proper sweetness is acquired. Like my mom always told me – you can add it in, but you can’t take it back out! Boy was she right, but don’t tell her I said that, or I’ll never hear the end of it – ha-ha! Once you get used to cooking with honey the rich flavor will spoil you, making sugar almost obsolete. Give it a try – and send me any recipes you love so I can share them with our readers!
As illustrator of Tara Chapman’s (Two Hives Honey – Austin, TX) new book, Caroline Brown of CJ in Wonderland created this lovely interpretation of what she learned goes into a jar of local honey. We believe she sums it up well for most of us!
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Premier PURA Assembled 10 Frame Deep Hive Box
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WOODENWARE
Whether you purchase assembled or unassembled woodenware, taking advantage of time indoors will put you ahead of the game for spring! You can prime and paint or stain your boxes – either way, sealing the exterior is a great way to get longevity out of your woodenware!
The newest offering from Premier Bee Products - Premier PURA Deep Hive Bodies are easily one of the best quality hive bodies available today. Nature pays attention to details. Premier Bee does too! Carefully milled from commercial grade white pine lumber Pura hives are a nod to the purest parts of nature. Premier has replaced traditional box joints with precision cut dovetail joints to provide greater strength. The half blind design (joints on only one side) reduces potential for rot.
As we continue to grow you will see and benefit from more and more tools designed with you in mind. One that we believe will be very helpful is the Club Finder! This interactive tool allows you to zoom into any area and locate a local bee club. As we continue to add more listings, we encourage leaders from clubs across the nation to click on the form just below the map and update or add the info for your club. With that, we can stay as current as possible to provide our readers with up-to-date club locator information.
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Name that Beekeeper! If any of you spotted the mistake listed on pg. 27 , you know that beekeepers James and Chari Elam felt a bit embarrassed when their mentor pointed out they had put the lid on the bottom, and the bottom as the lid - Oh well! You gotta laugh!
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HONEY LEMON BARS
YIELD:Makes 12 bars INGREDIENTS 1 cup - all-purpose flour 1/4 cup - powdered sugar 3/4 cup - butter or margarine, cut up 3/4 cup - honey 3 - eggs 2 T - all-purpose flour 3 T - fresh lemon juice zest from one lemon 1/2 tsp. - baking powder 1/4 tsp. - salt DIRECTIONS In small bowl, combine flour and powdered sugar; mix well. Cut in butter until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. Press mixture into lightly greased 8 x 8-inch baking pan. Bake at 350°F 12 to 15 minutes or until lightly browned; remove from oven. Meanwhile, prepare filling. In large bowl, whisk together honey and eggs. Add remaining ingredients; whisk until well blended. Pour over baked crust. Bake at 350°F 25 to 30 minutes or until filling is set. Cool completely on wire rack. Cut into bars.
Another bee camping near the hive on a chilly night. Nanette Davis
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