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TEXAS BEE SUPPLY
Monthly
Cover Photo:Kevin Stillman
September 2022
Featured Topics Fall Nutrition Pollen Patties & SHB Open Feeding Hive Inspections Honey Crystallizing Already?
Edition 27
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Table Of Contents
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6 Monthly Tips 8 Fall Nutrition 14 Pollen Patties and Small Hive Beetles 18 Can you Relate: Feeling Frustrated and Ready to Quit? 20 Open Feeding 22 Quick Tip: How much is too much burr comb? 24 How To Tell If My Hive Has Varroa Mites 26 Ask the Expert: If I don't treat will my bees become mite resistant? 28 Dealing with Weak Hives Going Into Fall 32 Can I Make A Fall Split? 34 How To Tell If My Hive Was Killed By Varroa Mites 36 Ask the Expert: What is the most common cause of hive death? 38 Talk with the Expert: Danessa Yaschuk 40 Hive Inspections 46 Ask the Expert: What's the most important things to look for in a hive inspection? 47 Ask the Expert: How best to keep records on your hives 50 Smoker Safety 56 Topics Beekeepers Can't Agree On: How can you tell if honey is pure? 62 Quick Tip: Honey Crystallizing Already? 64 Recipe: Sweet Chili Brussels Sprouts 66 Webinar Q&A 68 Club Announcements 73 Drought Chart
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MORE INFO
Kim Townsend & Shannon LaGrave
HOUSTON AREA
Learn what you need to know to keep bees and produce honey in this extensive 1-day, 6 hour beginning beekeeping class. Our experienced beekeepers lead you through topics such as the basic functions of the hive, types of bees present in your hive, necessary gear, identification and treatment of bee diseases and pests, managing a beehive, honey production, honey harvest, collection of nectar and pollen, how to get bees for your hive, a year in the life of a beekeeper, and much more. We will cover the necessary information you need to begin producing honey and raising healthy bees in this exciting 6 hour class. Plus - You'll get to work with live bees! Lunch included!!
James & Chari Elam
DALLAS AREA
BEGINNING BEEKEEPING FALL CLASSES
September can bring cooler weather and some moisture, or more scorching heat. Either way, continue to focus on maintaining 30 lbs of stored food for hives which are 1 deep box full of bees or more. Test for mites, as mite populations can begin to climb, necessitating another mite treatment. If you have 2 or less mites per 100 bees, treatment isn't necessary. However, if you do have 2 mites per 100 bees, test again in October. September begins the rearing of winter bees. Worker bees rear two kinds of bees - spring/summer bees and winter bees. Spring/summer bees are almost disposable, and are not fed quite the same diet. During those months, bees work so hard, they work themselves to death in a matter of weeks, thus they are reared on a less than ideal diet. Winter bees are fed as close to a perfect diet as possible, to ensure they are able to survive the entire winter. As beekeepers, it is crucial that we provide the bees with all the food and nutrition needed for our bees to rear the healthiest possible winter bees. We recommend feeding at least 2 lbs of pollen substitute in each of these months: September, October and November, to guarantee sufficient nutrition is available. If you want to re-queen your hive, September is a great time to do so. This will be the last month queens are available, so take advantage of the final opportunity to re-queen if your queen is over a year old.
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By: Blake Shook
SEPTEMBER TIPS
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By: Chari Elam
Ah September – Fall is here?? Depends on where you are! It’s still above average temperatures in most areas and the leaves that have falling are a result of the recent drought! Does this sound about right? You are not alone – the entire nation has been experiencing unprecedented drought conditions and our bees are feeling it! In August we talked a lot about Dearth. Are we (you) still in Dearth? I think it depends on who you ask as to the answer you get. Thankfully, some of us are starting to see some rain and fall forage plants popping up, but that’s not the case for everyone. The big question mark is what will result with the extreme drought conditions - although improving, just how many of our fall forage plants will come up when it’s all said and done? In light of this unknown, we need to be prepared to feed more strategically than in years past. I take great responsibility in keeping up to date on studies where our bees' nutrition is concerned. Trust me…I have read an article or two on this topic in preparation for this and every article I write. Unfortunately, what becomes glaringly obvious, is that for every article you read saying, “do this,” there will be at least one or more articles disputing it – even though most are credible, verifiable research! What’s a beekeeper to think or do?! In a world of feeding bees bananas and peppermints (the social media rage at the moment) – just be practical! This is not to say, new ideas aren’t worth the time to explore. I actually strongly encourage any beekeeper that wants to do field studies to do so! Who better to prove or disprove a hypothesis?! But when it comes to basic honey bee nutrition, nothing has changed. They still require protein in the form of pollen, carbohydrates in the form of nectar, and water! Therefore, when these resources are subjected to nature's ebb and flow (aka: nature only – no beekeeper intervention) we end up with what could result in unhealthy bees! All that said – It is well documented that bees need to have a nearly perfect diet this time of year to overwinter in the best possible health. If that perfect diet is built on quality protein consumption – what could we expect of nature in a year such as this? Probably not the results we would hope for! It is proven that plant diversity is where quantity equalizes quality for our bees. In fall we simply don’t have the variety needed to fulfill that perfect diet! Crude protein in plant pollen is categorized as low quality when below 20% – sufficient when above 20% – and excellent when 25% or greater. In spring and through the nectar flow, honey bees have a variety of plants from which to gather pollen, giving them an average crude protein range from 20 - 30% (in most areas). However, the complete opposite is true for fall forage. The lack of pollen producing plant varieties is our “short fall” (pun intended), producing at best protein values of less than 15% in many cases. What does all this mean to you? It means supplemental feeding of pollen can make up where nature falls short. Whether you choose Global Pollen Supplement or Ultra Bee, these products have a proven track record and do provide your bees with the protein nature is lacking for them now. How much pollen patty do I feed them? Be consistent – in total, feed your hive 2 lbs. of pollen each month between September and November. This will likely look like a ¼ to ½ patty per week or two or even less in hives subjected to Small Hive Beetles making babies in it. We often will cut bacon size strips and place them on top of the brood nest bars (between boxes), replenishing weekly or bi- weekly at the most. Don’t just stop at supplementing pollen! Check the honey stores! Where are those you ask? They should be in both the top box and bottom box. Honey frames are usually located in the outer frame positions. For the next couple of months, you should maintain 30-40 lbs. of stored honey in the second box. That means, any stored honey in the bottom box is a bonus! Do I need to feed if I have enough stored honey? This is a loaded question, and one I’m going to throw right back to you in the form of a “it’s up to you” answer! I realize that doesn’t help, but there are pros and cons to feeding when stores are adequate. Too much nectar and the bees will overfill open cells. Not enough and they’ll begin to consume the stores during times of dearth like now! My preference, feed until the fall flow hits your area – IF it hits this year… This is more of an insurance policy. I’d much rather my bees feed on honey stores through winter than me having to force feed a syrup they likely won’t eat because it’s too cold. Feed now and let them consume stores overwinter seems like a better plan to me. In closing – if you’ve not read Fat Bee Skinny Bee I encourage you to do so. Although somewhat outdated, It is a very easy to read publication and packed full of solid information and recommendations that are still followed today. In looking back through it, I ran across this statement that I thought would be a very fitting way to end this article: Quote: “A beekeeper’s skill is to be able to ascertain the nutritional status of a colony, predict what the floral conditions that are immediately and in the future available to it, and determine a course of action to ensure his/her goals are achieved.” Couldn’t have said it better myself!
Fall Nutrition To Supplement or Not to Supplement...
Quick Tip: Do the tilt test to gauge the weight of a hive. This simple lifting the back of the hive with your hive tool and give you a clear indication of honey stores. Check out this video that shows you how!
1st Thursday of Each Month Next meeting September 1st 6:30 pm - 8:00 pm
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Winter Prep Begins This Month!
Join Blake Shook as he walks you through what's going on in your hives and prepares you for the month to follow! James and Chari Elam answer your questions LIVE and present short practical timely topics.
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Virtual Bee Yard Instruction followed by monthly tips! - Live In the Bee Yard Tips - Pollen sub- essential or a waste? - When to Stop Feeding - How Much Honey to Leave for Winter - Combining Hives - Fixing Weak Hives - Q&A & More!
Pollen Patties and Small Hive Beetles
If you keep bees in the southern half of the US, especially within 500 miles of the coast, you’ve most likely had to deal with small hive beetles. They are especially problematic when trying to feed pollen substitute, as they absolutely love it. The beetles themselves aren’t actually the problem. It is the Small Hive Beetle larva that cause the damage. The SHB lays eggs in pollen patties, which hatch into larva. The larva not only eat the patty, but they can damage the hive as well. Most strong hives can remove the larvae without an issue. The key is to only give the hive as much pollen patty as they can eat in about 7-10 days. In some cases, that could mean cutting the pollen patty in half or even in quarters. A deep box full of bees or more can typically eat a properly moist 1lb patty in a week or less. If your hive is less than a deep box full of bees, give them half a pound at a time. This ensures the bees eat all the pollen patty before the larvae have the chance to cause damage. Here are a few key points to keep in mind: It is common to see a few larvae in a pollen patty. If it’s just a few, you can just scrape the larva off outside the hive and then return the patty. Larvae tend to live where the bees can’t get to them to remove them on the patty. Sometimes just rearranging the patty helps; giving the bees access to remove the larvae themselves. If you see dozens of larvae, freeze the patty for 72 hours to kill the larva, then you can return it to the hive. If the patty ever gets harder than thick peanut butter, the bees typically won’t eat it. It’s best just to give the bees a fresh patty. Often pollen substitute powder comes with instructions to make it into a patty form or mix it with syrup to create a protein slurry you would feed the bees in a division board feeder. For areas with SHB, this isn’t recommended. The larvae tend to quickly reproduce in the slurry and make a huge mess. How Many SHB Should be Cause for Concern? Small Hive Beetles are spreading at an increasing rate in the US. They thrive in the southern states where the conditions are warmer, and winters are mild, but have progressively moved north, both naturally and carried by beekeepers. Although, they tend to not be as much of an issue in the northern half of the US as they struggle to survive the longer, colder winters. If you see 5 or less SHB per inspection, there is little cause for concern. They are present in many hives and as mentioned, strong hives can easily keep them under control. SHB can survive in the wild, and fly to and from hives typically at dusk. Unfortunately eliminating every SHB from your hive won’t prevent more from flying in from the natural environment or feral hives. If I see more than 5, I keep a closer eye on the hive, but don’t necessarily take action. I will however monitor how much pollen and syrup I feed my bees, knowing there are SHB present. If I see a dozen, or a few dozen during an inspection, especially if my hive is less than 1 deep box full of bees, I often take some steps to control them.
Made with 15% real pollen, these protein patties are readily accepted by bees. Stimulates brood rearing to nurture the hive to maximum strength!
Beetle Blasters
How To Install Beetle Traps
We’ve all been there! You read books, attended a class, watched webinars … Everything you could do, you did! And still your bees and YOU aren’t working out. It can be so frustrating! The best advice that can be heeded is, “Don’t give up!” Maybe, just maybe, it isn’t you! It may be your bees, or your location. Consider this – Requeen when possible and move your bees. And as ridiculous as it sounds – Buy more bees! Often only having a single colony or even 2 won’t give you the resources needed to share between the hives. This is a crucial element in successful beekeeping. It has been proven over and over again that some locations aren’t conducive for a thriving colony. It could even amount to “just feet” for the move. Try moving your hive to the other side of your yard or property. Also consider the amount of shade vs sunlight the hive is getting. Change it either direction. If it was in a sunnier than shadier spot, try giving them a bit more shade… same goes if it was sitting in a shady spot, give it more sun. Sometimes small adjustments can make all the difference in the world! Let’s face it – We don’t know what we don’t know, until we know it!
Facebook post courtesy: Rina D'Angelo and daughter Vivienne of Barrie, Ontario, Canada
Can You Relate?
Feeling Frustrated and Ready to Quit?
Feeling frustrated and ready to quit After three years and not once any honey in a super, this hobby has only cost me time and money. Things were starting to look up! A super was being filled! I had hope! Now my hives are being robbed! I live near Lake Simoce in Ontario. I see all your beautiful photos of jars of honey and your stores of super upon super of liquid gold. I've had a hive die, now dealing with robbers. I feed, I mite treat, I've naturalized my yard and garden. And nothing. Sorry for the depressing rant, but no one else I know cares to hear me talk about bees Picture of me and my baby bee
Open Feeding
Photo/Instruction Credit: Nancy Buffington - Keeping Backyard Bees 2015
Pros: It more accurately simulates a natural nectar flow, as the bees exit the hive and forage for the syrup. This can help promote more brood production, but only minimally. You don’t have to open your hives to feed them
Two-gallon bucket with lid.
If you do choose to open feed, make sure the feeder prevents the bees from drowning. Typically, a 1:1 syrup works best, as bees more readily forage on 1:1, and are less likely to drown. An inverted bucket of syrup, with very small holes drilled in the edge of the bucket, allowing the rim to fill with syrup works well. Alternatively, a chicken waterer works perfectly too!
Fill the bucket with syrup; secure the lid tightly and turn it upside down on top of either a larger bucket or platform. And always place the feeder bucket at least 25 yards away from your bees to help prevent any robbing of your own hives.
Open feeding has a few pros and cons. In general, the cons outweigh the pros.
Drilling holes in each section with smallest drill bit possible.
Cons: Strong hives tend to gather the most, and weaker hives tend to be able to gather very little. Thus, weaker hives still have to be fed internally. Bees can share viruses and mites as they congregate tightly together at feeders You are feeding all the bees in the neighborhood, not just yours If the weather is rainy or cool, bees won’t forage for syrup Other animals love syrup too!
SHOP
How much is too much burr comb?
Bee space is approximately 3/8 inch. Any space greater than that bees build burr comb… less than that they fill with propolis. Burr comb is their way of building roads and bridges as well as adding comb space for brood production. Even though the comb can get in our way while doing inspections, do we leave it or remove it? Good question, and one without a definitive answer. When burr comb gets out of control (preventing a lid from sealing properly or causing issues with frame manipulation) it’s time to shave some away to free up the space. Often, it’s the bridge comb between boxes that gets the most workout. This comb is most always drone brood comb from spring thru fall. Removing it will only be followed by it being replaced quickly. Therefore, keeping it managed seems to be more efficient. Note: When removing comb do not throw it on the ground around your hives. This will act as bait for other insects such as Small Hive Beetles and robber bees. Carry a resealable container to deposit it in to save for other projects.
Apimaye hives are the Cadillac of beekeeping gear. With an R value 6X a wood box, it is EXCELLENT at keeping your hive cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter! The insulated components DO make life easier for your bees, and are a fantastic buffer during temperature extremes.
QUICK TIP
Apimaye Hives Now Available!
The short answer is - they do! Virtually every hive in the USA has, or will soon have, Varroa. It’s simply a question of what the levels are. Anything over 2 mites per 100 bees, and intervention is needed. We hear from beekeepers all the time who say they don’t see mites in their hive, so they don’t have an issue. We often see enlarged pictures of mites perched prominently on the backs of bees. However, it is quite rare to see mites on bees' backs. They prefer to slide between the plates of a bee under her abdomen, making them very hard to see. Plus, the greatest damage mites do is to the capped brood, which you cannot see! The only way to properly determine your mite levels is to test for mites, then treat if needed.Check out this article in a previous issue for testing recommendations. While testing is the ideal method for determining your Varroa mite levels, there are some visual clues of a Varroa infestation. Keep in mind, if you are seeing visual clues, it often means your hive has an extensive Varroa mite infestation. Varroa mites on adult bees Varroa mites on drone brood – When you break two boxes apart, you will often see drone larvae in the burr comb between boxes. The reddish Varroa mites stand out easily on the white larva and if you look quickly, can be seen easily. Bees with deformed wings – Varroa mites frequently transmit a virus called the Deformed Wing Virus. The adult bees will have deformed wings which look shriveled. You may also see these bees crawling on the ground in front of the hive since they cannot fly. Bees uncapping and removing pupa – Hygienic bees can sense Varroa mites under capped cells and will pull Varroa infested pupa out of the hive and discard them. It’s always disappointing to lose a hive. However, all beekeepers lose hives, and often many hives. Understanding why they died and how you can prevent it next time is one of the most important elements of learning to become a better beekeeper! Varroa mites are one of the, if not the most common causes of death for a hive. While it is difficult to diagnose the cause of death with complete accuracy, here are some telltale signs Varroa mites may have been the culprit: You never treated or intervened in any way to control Varroa mites. If this is the case, regardless of the breed or promises from wherever you purchased bees, typically the hive was killed from mites. The vast majority of hives simply cannot survive long term without some intervention to control Varroa mites. Your hive died yet was never Queenless or without ample food. Queen-lessness and starvation are common causes for a hive to dwindle and die. However, if your hive was never Queenless, or lacked sufficient food, yet still dwindled and died, Varroa mites are often to blame. You did treat yet did not test post treatment to ensure the treatment worked. Treatments, chemical or natural, don’t always work. If your hive dwindled and died, while having a laying queen and plenty of feed, despite a mite treatment, it doesn’t mean it still wasn’t mites. Even if the treatment did work, a month or two later, Varroa levels can spike again. I’ve treated hives to the point where they had almost no Varroa mites at all and checked back 2 months later only to find they had deadly high Varroa mite levels. You treated, tested, it worked, your hive never went Queenless and always had plenty of food, yet they still dwindled and died. This is one of the most frustrating things which can happen in all of beekeeping! I’ve had it happen many times, from a few hives in my backyard, to hundreds of hives commercially. There are many things we still don’t know about bees, and why they at times dwindle and die, with no apparent problems, is still a mystery. One final hidden Varroa induced culprit can be the viruses they spread. If your mite levels got dangerously high (more than 7 mites per 100 bees) they could have spread deadly viruses to your bees. Those viruses can live up to 6 months after the Varroa mites were killed. This can be a hidden cause of death months later, even if your mite levels were brought under control. That’s why prompt testing and control of Varroa is so important!
Although these visual signs are indicative of Varroa mites, don’t rely on them...test! You should be testing long before visual signs arise. Often, by the time you can visually diagnose a Varroa infestation, it is too late for your hive.
How To Tell If My Hive Has Varroa Mites
Photo Credit: Jennifer Scott
Photo Credit: MAAREC
ASK THE EXPERTS!
Need Help?
Lauren Ward Entomologist A Bar Beekeeping
Blake Shook Owner Desert Creek Honey and Co- Owner Texas Bee Supply
If I don't treat for mites will my bees become mite resistant?
Steps for repairing a weak hive First efforts in nursing back a hive should start with a Varroa test and treatment if warranted. If you skip this step, you are wasting your time. Boost health by applying Super DFM Requeen if possible Add nurse bees from a healthy hive Combine with a hive of equal or greater strength Feed strategically – feed heavy syrup (2:1 or pre- made syrup) and keep small amounts of pollen patties on the hive through November. Repeat Varroa test prior to November - ensure low mite loads going into winter.
Dealing With Weak Hives Going Into Fall
Hives typically not worth saving Less than 2 frames of bees (not enough workers to support even being requeened) If there is widespread evidence of DWV (Deformed Wing Virus) or other disease(s). Queenless long enough to have established laying workers. Unstoppable robbing. (No matter what you do they keep coming back.) Hive's inability to keep their box clean. (This indicates a failing workforce and typically found with little population) No food (honey or pollen) being brought in or stored. (No foragers)
Hives with a chance of saving More than 3 frames of bees still performing daily duties albeit not thriving. Recently Queenless with good population and resources continuing to be brought in. Little DWV, increased mite load but no other presence of disease.
Odds are at some point you will be forced to contend with a weak hive. To take it one step further, going into fall and winter is the worst time for this to happen! There can be a number of reasons why a hive is weak – an over population of Varroa mites topping the list. It may seem as though we harp on Varroa mites, but the truth is they are the most common cause of colony issues! Many studies have been done on whether we are justified in spending the time and energy to nurse a hive back to health. These studies seem for the most part to be logic based – Time + Expense = Result. Most would agree it makes little sense to put your time and money into a hive if the result won’t be favorable.
Now might be a good time to tell you what those studies revealed. More often than not hives did not respond favorably to efforts to save them when any of the previous factors where in play. With that in mind, it seems more logical to focus on colonies that are in better health and cut your loss on those that are too far gone.
Part 1
Combining colonies This is a valid recovery system in certain instances. There are some hives that just can’t or won’t grow even when we’ve done everything right! The ONLY colonies worthy of combining or those that have a low mite load and no sign of disease. Combining hives with high mite loads only perpetuates the diseases and will often cause even greater issues.
Combining hives is easy! Watch this 2 part video on what you need, and step by step instructions on how to accomplish it!
Steps for combining Identify both the weak and receiving hives in your bee yard Low mite counts on both! Smoke the entrance to both hives heavily Remove the outer cover from the receiving hive Feed internal feeder (or other) and place a pollen patty on the top bars of that hive Lay a piece of newspaper directly on top of the top bars (over the pollen patty). Place the weak hive on top of the stronger hive and return the outer cover! Done!
It is really important to monitor this hive. Go back in a week and verify the newspaper is chewed through and you still have a laying queen. This gives you the opportunity to change or correct anything if it didn’t work. Continue to feed through fall. Odds are in your favor you’ll have a much better hive going into winter!
Part 2
CAN I MAKE A FALL SPLIT?
Tara Chapman Featured on the Today Show, Vice Media and Eating Well Magazine Two Hives Honey - Austin, TX
It is not at all uncommon to make a fall split, given the proper resources . It does take a strong hive, not unlike a summer split, with virtually the same requirements. 7 - 8 Frames of brood 4 + frames of stored honey Mated queen (preferably) Follow-up care is essential with these late season splits. Keep feeding and plan to monitor closely throughout the fall and into the winter. Although not for everyone, if you have the resources, a late season split can overwinter well and be a valuable production colony come spring!
Dodie Stillman President Austin Area Beekeepers Association Master Beekeeper
How to Tell If My Hive was Killed by Varroa Mites
MITE TREATMENTS
HINT: We have control over it!
What is the most common cause of hive death that you see Dr. Ellis?
Dr. Jamie Ellis Gahan Endowed Professor of Entomology in the Department of Entomology and Nematology at the University of Florida
Thanks for sharing your funny Nona Evans of Austin, Texas!
with Chari Elam
Talk with the Expert Introducing Danessa Yaschuk
I’d like for you to meet Danessa Yaschuk – Owner/operator of SweetNes Honey Apiaries & Beetique. Danessa (Nes) has taken what started as a fascination with honey bees and turned it into a full-time, thriving business! Listen as we discuss what she is doing with her over 300 colonies as we move into fall – Varroa treatments to supplemental feeding.
What do you call it when you are rendering wax and your tongs get caught on the strainer bag and you fling hot wax all across your shirt and kitchen sink? .... A wax-ident! Yes, I did that.
BY: CHARI ELAM
I can’t tell you how many seasoned beekeepers I’ve talked to that whisper quietly so no one will hear: “I get into my hives, and it never looks like it’s supposed to, and as I look, I get confused at what I’m seeing and what to do with what I’m seeing!” Does that sound like you? C’mon… admit it! We’ve ALL been there! There is good news for you though – you WILL get it! It’s takes a bit of practice, but you will get it! Let me simplify the aspects of a hive inspection by starting with “what” they are and “when” we do them. There are 2 different types of hive inspections: Hive Check: Bi-weekly (except for Winter months, then monthly) – You only pull a few frames to verify the queen is laying and resources (Honey/Nectar/Pollen) are available in the quantity required at the time. *Note: If issues are found, this hive check should turn into a hive inspection and problems resolved. Hive Inspection: Seasonal (February – spring buildup, May – prior to supering, August – Dearth stress time for our bees, and November – before overwintering). This is pulling most frames and inspecting each of them thoroughly for any issues – Can include requeening and/or splits. Perform Varroa Test (possibly treat if needed), make space adjustments, frame manipulation (equalizing between different boxes), and overall correction of any issues if found. Regardless of whether you are just checking your hives or doing a full-on “hive dive,” the same principles apply. You are looking for: Population Frames of Brood Eggs & larva (aka, Queen present and laying) Frames of honey/stores (Do I feed or not?) Pollen in hive (Do I supplement or not?) Well-fed brood (wet/plenty of milky liquid in with developing larvae) Space – too little or too much Brood disease or evidence of Varroa mites Consider running 9 frames instead of 10 in a 10-frame box. This makes hive inspections much easier. Remove 1 outer (honey) frame before you start your inspection. Take only 1 frame out at a time while inspecting the hive, starting with the one closest to you. Quickly scan for the queen. If she is there, continue to inspect the frame being really careful not to damage her. As you move through the box, quickly look for the components mentioned earlier… brood, stores, and pest or diseases. If issues are found such as inferior brood pattern, brood disease, or anything you question – take a quick photo of it with your phone and note the frame on which it is located. This will be homework for you after you have finished. Work your most aggressive hive last. The most important thing to remember - If you see something wrong, research the solution. If you are unable to come to a good solution, contact us! That’s where your photos can come in very handy. What’s the old saying? A picture is worth a thousand words! Same holds true in beekeeping! Space is often the most overlooked, under adjusted aspect of management. The key to knowing whether or not a hive's space needs adjusting is based on these points: Season Are they in population growth? (February – July) – Running out of space will cause swarms. Add box(es) when 80% capacity has been reached or split. Never add boxes after a nectar flow (after July) unless you will be feeding heavily. This will ensure your colony continues to grow. *Note – adding additional boxes past late summer will not likely fill enough to remain through winter regardless. Population decline/dormant (August – January) – Too much space can cause pests to overtake a colony (i.e., Small Hive Beetles or Wax Moths). Robbing can also be an issue with weaker colonies. Condition of the hive Queenless for a period of time could have reduced populations to less than a number of bees that can defend a box. Varroa Mite infestation can cause reduced populations. Health – lack of consistent nutrition (starving)
HIVE INSPECTIONS
Adjust the space to fit the number of bees or combine with another colony.
Expected Average By Season January – 5 + frames of bees March – 8 + frames of bees May – 14 + frames of bees November – 12 + frames of bees
Helpful Tips
Frames of Bees
Early Spring (late February – April) Little stored honey left from overwintering. Some nectar and pollen around the brood nest, probably beekeeper generated supplemental feeding. Population increasing quickly, should be football shape and size.
Late Fall/Early Winter (October – November) Honey stores should be rebuilt to sufficient overwinter capacity of 30-40 lbs. (3 – 4 frames) in upper deep brood box (due to supplemental feeding during dearth and a fall nectar flow). Little stored pollen because it’s not necessary, due to the time of year and the queen not laying. Brood is scarce. Population is at dormant stage with little/no brood and remaining steady.
Late Spring/early Summer (May – June/July) Honey stores in the brood nest should be re-established. Plenty of nectar and pollen around the brood nest. Population is nearing/at peak and should be the size of a basketball.
I've been told this hive inspection sheet I made years ago was very helpful to some as they were mastering hive inspections. Click on the image to print as many copies as you'd like!
Winter (Nov. – mid Jan.) Hive is clustered and living off stored honey of which will be decreasing daily. No brood to speak of, depending on your geographic location. Population is declining due to aging out.
The Average Seasonal Hive
Late Summer/Early Fall (August – September) Honey stores may be stressed due to Summer dearth - depending on the beekeeper for supplementing. Active brood nest has reduced to size of a cantaloupe.
CLICK ON IMAGE TO PRINT
It’s very important to manage your bees while respecting the seasonal dynamics of the hive - Taking action when indicators tell you to, and staying on top of inspections. ALL good rules to follow!
Keeping track of your hives is very important! Whether it's with a hive inspection sheet, writing on top of the box with a wax pencil or apps for your phone! Let's listen as Tara Chapman tells us her favorite way!
Ask the Experts: How best to keep records on your hives!
So many details! As we go into our hives we have key points that we need to look for each time. Here are some in addition those mentioned in the previous article - Check it out!
Ask the Experts: What's the most important things to look for in a hive inspection?
James and Chari Elam TBS Instructors Blue Ribbon Honey Company
What? You want to build your own boxes?
Woodenware
Want or need to save money? Assembling your own hives can do just that - and it's so easy!
Only YOU Can Prevent Fires in the Bee Yard!
By Susan and Tom Caldwell
Here are a few quick tips when handling your smoker: Keep a fire extinguisher with you. Choose an area to light your smoker that is free from burnable materials (on a concrete slab, in a sandy area of your bee yard, etc.). Avoid lighting your smoker in the wind allowing embers to float to flammable material. Keep your lit smoker in a metal bucket or box (i.e., old tool box) Do NOT sit your smoker on the ground. Dry grass can catch fire from the extreme heat of the hot smoker surface. Be aware of where your smoker is at all times. You don’t want to trip over it! Keep the smoker away from the veil of your bee suit! Floating embers can melt a hole large enough for several bee friends to get through! When cleaning out your smoker, never dump ashes on the ground. Instead have an additional metal bucket with a tight metal lid to carefully dump your smoker contents into. Place the lid on the bucket and then pour a little water into your smoker to be sure no sparks remain. Store everything in a safe place!
With the heat and severe drought conditions we are experiencing, the smallest spark from a bee smoker can become a nightmare in minutes! Our bee yard happens to be located in the midst of our managed pine plantation, and because those trees are a primary agricultural investment, we risk more than hives if a smoker fire gets out of control. That is the #1 reason we have always carried our smoker in a metal bucket – and the smoker STAYS in that bucket unless we pick it up to puff smoke in a hive! Even the smallest fires can turn into massive devastation. If identified, fines in the hundreds of thousands of dollars are being imposed on those who even “accidentally” start them. Beekeepers have a responsibility to avoid being the cause of property damage or even worse.
Smoker Safety
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Photo Credit: Nanette Davis
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Unlike any other suit on the market - the one and only TBS Super Suit! This suit is built to last. Made of the toughest triple layer material we could find with only the very best non-rusting zippers and the wonderfully handy zippered veil! Plus it has veil supports in the back, rugged knee coverings, heavy duty elastic, adjustable wrists, full length leg zippers and added material through the torso. We didn't even skimp on the cotton for the pockets or the thread and insisted on both of those being worthy of the Super Suit - durable, heavy weight, top-of-the-line materials. We believe this is the best beekeeping suit available anywhere. Visit us and see it for yourself or just take our word for it and place your order! Created By Beekeepers For Beekeepers!
Photo Credit: Kirk Kirksey Rancho Incognito
FUN FACT Many flowering plants respond almost instantly to rain and humidity. The Texas Sage is just one example of how even a small amount of rain will reward our pollinators in sweet late season nectar.
By: Lynne Jones
Topics Beekeepers Can't Agree On!
Most people who buy honey direct from a beekeeper, do so because they want pure, raw, local honey. Thanks to beekeepers, consumers are becoming more aware that honey is one of the commonly adulterated foods in the “food fraud” industry.It is understandable there would be concerns about whether the honey being purchased is pure. A paper published in the Journal of Food Science justifies these concerns as it concludes that olive oil, milk, honey, and saffron are the most common foods tampered with by manufacturers. My honey is labeled as 100% Pure Raw Honey, and as a member of the Real Texas HoneyTM program, I have a “Real Honey” sticker affixed as well! But other than taking my word for it, how can someone know the honey they buy is pure, unadulterated honey? On August 2nd, I asked members of two Beekeeping Facebook groups*,“Other than having a sample lab-tested, how can a person tell if honey is pure honey (unadulterated)?” A total of sixteen beekeepers replied to my question. Half of the responses were: ‘Know your beekeeper” or “Be a beekeeper.” Two (2) suggested “at home tests.” First was the “water test”. To do the water test, put water into a small cup or bowl, then pour about a tablespoon of honey into the water. Supposedly, if the honey is pure, it will reach the bottom of the water without dissolving (mixing with the water). The second suggested test was to “dip a matchstick in honey and then light it. If it burns, that means the quality of your honey is pure.” Sporkin Theeye said, “There are dozens of supposed 'home tests,' but I am not aware of any that work. “ E.T. Ash commented: “… for some things only a lab test will provide conclusive results. NMR (nuclear magnetic resonance) is considered the gold standard.” Concluding more research was needed, and being a lazy researcher, I just “Googled it,” and in that search I found several techniques to home test for honey purity. According to Dr. Prekshi Garg, honey can be home tested by the Solubility test (water test), the Flame test (matchstick), the Blot test (the flow-ability of honey) and the Vinegar test (foam/no foam). However, Garg also stated that for each of these home tests, depending on the substance added to the honey, the tests can give false results (adulterated honey passing as pure honey). This inspired me to conduct the home tests myself with my recently extracted honey that I know is pure. For the comparison to adulterated honey, I added light corn syrup at the ratio of 3 parts honey to 1 part corn syrup. The corn syrup-honey was very runny. From appearance alone, I don’t think it passed for honey. I also used the same ratio with pancake syrup. It was thicker than the corn-syrup honey and looked like honey. My results were as follows: Not surprisingly, the pure honey passed all of the tests. But the pancake-syrup “sort of” passed all the tests, and even the corn-syrup honey, that visually didn’t look like pure honey, passed half the tests! Therefore, based on this experiment, my conclusion is the home tests are not reliable for determining if honey is adulterated. Taking it a step further, I also researched the types of laboratory tests available for honey. According to the National Honey Board’s FAQS on Honey Testing Methods for Detecting Adulteration with Sugar Syrups, there are four types of tests: 13C Stable Carbon Isotope Ratio Method (SCIRA) or EA/IRMS. 13C Stable Carbon Isotope Ratio Method paired with a Liquid Chromatograph or EA/LC-IRMS. Nuclear Magnetic Resonance Profiling or NMR. Liquid Chromatography-High Resolution Mass Spectrometry analysis or HRMS. The first one, EA/IRMS, was developed in the 1970's. It only detects the presence of syrups made from C3 plants – corn and sugar cane. In response, the companies diluting their honey adapted by switching to syrups made from C4 plants – beets, rice, wheat, and others. In 2008, the EA/LC-IRMS test was developed which detects the C4 syrups and some of the C3 syrups. Neither of these tests can determine if resin technology has been used. This technology can remove pollen, antibiotics, and the chemicals that give honey color, and even flavor and aroma. As well as hide the botanical/geographical origin and whether nectar was extracted and/or artificially ripened into honey. The NMR testing method for honey became available in 2013. It is capable of detecting, what the first two are not. However, the evaluation relies on having a ‘database’ of honey samples to compare against. Testing companies each have their own database, so results can differ between different labs. Additionally, as more samples are added to a database, interpretations can change. The fourth test, the HRMS test, is the most recently developed test and not yet widely used. It is not included on the NHB comparison; however, it can detect all compounds foreign to honey and it identifies more than 400 known adulterant compounds. It is hopeful to think these laboratory tests will reduce the amount of adulterated honey on the market. However, lab tests are not likely to be utilized by honey customers to ensure they have pure honey. Although the home tests are not reliable, they probably ease the mind of consumers who try them. It seems the best answer to my question of “How to tell if honey is pure, unadulterated honey” is that of ½ those polled: Know Your Beekeeper (or become one)!
How can you tell if honey is pure?
*Facebook Links: Central Texas Beekeepers Texas Friendly Beekeepers
Lynne Jones is owner of Brazos River Honey Secretary-Treasurer of the Fort Bend Beekeepers Association and Advanced level in the Texas Master Beekeeper program
As you can see in the National Honey Board (NHB) comparison, when this test is combined with the LC-HRMS test, there is a high level of detection for adulteration, resin processing, and the origin of the honey.
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Honey Crystallizing already?! That might not be a bad thing if being kept in buckets! Commercial beekeepers actually encourage their stored honey to crystallize, ensuring it doesn't ferment or change in taste and color. It can be thought of as a "preservation method" in a sense. To get your honey back to liquid state, (if bottled) simply place the container in a warm water bath and repeat as often as necessary to re-liquify. On a larger scale, (buckets) a bucket warmer is the ideal method. Otherwise, an old chest type freezer or large insulated box (could be an ice chest) with a 40 watt light bulb works well. Just place the honey inside and set the light on a timer to help maintain "hive temperature" of 95 F. Note: Staying at this temperature for long periods of time will cause the honey to darken, but doesn't typically affect the taste.
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We are continuously working to supply the industry with quality products and great customer service - Commercial Beekeepers included!
YIELD:Makes 4 servings INGREDIENTS 2 T - olive oil 2 T - honey 1 T - soy sauce 1 clove - garlic, minced 3/4 tsp. - crushed red pepper (or Aleppo pepper) 1 lb. - Brussels sprouts, trimmed and loose leaves removed kosher salt and freshly ground pepper DIRECTIONS Preheat oven to 425°F. Whisk together the olive oil, honey, soy sauce, garlic, and red pepper. Add the Brussels sprouts and toss to coat. Spread the sprouts evenly onto a sheet pan and bake until crispy and caramelized, about 20 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and serve hot. TIP Green beans are delicious in place of the Brussels sprouts, just reduce the cook time to 10-12 minutes.
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We continue to break records on how many beekeepers attend, and the number of questions we answer LIVE each month! Check out what your fellow beekeepers were asking us!
Walker County Beekeepers Association 1402 19th Street Huntsville, TX 77340 Last Thursday of each month Q & A on the front porch at 6:30, meeting at 7:00 PM
Denton County Beekeepers Association Meets the 2nd Tuesday of each month both in-person and on zoom! Details on www.dentonbees.com and on Facebook
Williamson Co Beekeepers Association 4th Tuesday of each month at the Georgetown library in Georgetown. Zoom attendance also available. Click Here for more info
SPEAKER REQUEST
Elm Fork Beekeepers 3rd Thursday each month in person or Zoom at the VFW Hall in Gainsville, TX. Go to: elmforkbeekeepers.org for Zoom link
Tri-County Beekeepers Association 4th Tuesday @ 5:30 pm of each month Sam's Restaurant - Fairfield, TX
Lamar County Beekeepers Association Meets 1st Thursday each month at 6:30 Red River Valley Fairground - Building B Paris, Texas
Montgomery County Beekeepers Association 3rd Monday of each month 9020 Airport Rd. Conroe, TX 77303 Non-members welcome! www.mocobees.com
Kaufman Area Beekeepers Association Second Tuesday each month at 6:30 pm United Methodist Church, 208 S. Houston St. Kaufman, TX New Beekeepers Q & A 5:45-6:15
Comal County BeeKeepers Association First Thursday each month at 6:30 - 7:00 dinner - 7:00 - 8:30 meeting Beefy's on the Green - Spring Branch, TX
Pineywoods Beekeepers Association 2nd Thursday each month Lufkin Angelina County Chamber of Commerce 1615 S. Chestnut Lufkin, TX
Hill County Beekeepers Association In - Person meetings every 3rd Tuesday of the month 6:30 at Hill County Annex Office, Hillsboro, TX
Wood County Beekeepers Association 1st Tuesday of the month at 7:00 pm! The current meeting location is the Winnsboro Civic Center
Travis County Beekeepers Association 1st Monday 7-9 pm Zilker Botanical Garden ~ Gift Shop 2220 Barton Springs Rd. Autin, TX 78746 www.TravisCountyBeekeepers.org
Harris County Beekeepers 4th Tuesday each month - 6:30 Meet & Greet - 7:00 meetings start - 5001 W. Oak, Pasadena TX 77504 Harris County Beekeepers Association
Need a Guest Speaker for your Club? Contact us for details!
Austin Area Beekeepers Association Third Thursday each month at 7:00 pm Frickett Scout Center For meeting details CLICK HERE!
Fort Bend Beekeepers 2nd Tuesday of each month (except Dec) in person or online. Bud O'Shieles Community Center 1330 band Road, Rosenberg, TX
Hays County Beekeepers Association In - Person meetings every 3rd Wednesday of the month 6:30 -9pm at Suds Monkey Brewing Company - 12024 US-290, Austin, TX
Central Texas Beekeepers Association Washington County Fairgrounds VIP room 4th Thursday of each month, 7:00 pm CentralTexasBeekeepers.org
Club Announcements
Houston Beekeepers Association 3rd Tuesday each month in person at Bayland Community Center, 6400 Bissonnet St Houston, TX 77074 HoustonBeekeepers.org
Liberty County Beekeepers Association First Tuesday each month at 6:30 Texas Bee Supply in Dayton/Huffman For more information go to LibertyCountyBeekeepers.org
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NETBA Fall Seminar
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2022 Fall Seminar in Canton,TX
We are so excited to update you on our Austin Area store progress! Although taking longer than we had hoped, groundwork is underway! Like most projects these days, aspects beyond our control have caused delays - but we are happy to say, we are UNDER CONSTRUCTION!
Texas Bee Supply - Austin Area Elgin, TX
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Photo Credit: Amanda Bears - Little Souix, Iowa ~Honey Bee Enjoying a Watermelon ~